This is the most popular route on Middle Teton and most parties opt for this route. Follow directions for the approach to Garnet Canyon. Continue up Garnet Canyon to The Meadows. At the meadows take the south (left) fork. Climb the left fork of Garnet Canyon ALL the way to the saddle between South Teton and Middle Teton. Several parties have made the mistake of turning north into one of many south-facing coulairs. You'll know you have gone far enough to the saddle when one if not several things happen: 1) Icefloe Lake is visible 2) A solid gust of wind greets you from the south and west or 3) One more step would mean a precipitous drop of a thousand feet.

Route Description

Generally, the following holds true for this couloir. It begins as a Class 2 hike. The lower part of the coulair is nothing more than Class 3. Toward the upper notch (100 feet) and along the ridge is Class 4. The final few feet may require a Class 5 move or two to finish the final summit boulders.
At the saddle between South and Middle turn right (north). The couloir is clearly visible and is the most obvious route to the summit. The lower section of the couloir offers no particular challenge in mid-late season. In early season or winter ascents an ice axe and crampons may be/are necessary. Escape out of this couloir is possible, but not advisable until higher in the couloir. Rockfall is also a concern. This is a popular route with plenty of loose scree and boulders. Proper preparation and precaution should be taken. Middle Teton has two summits. The couloir runs up right in the middle of the two. The north summit is higher. Continue up the couloir until within 100 feet of the notch between the two summits (Class 3). Turn left (north) and coutour to the west ridge for a short scramble (Class 3-4). The ridge is a bit airy, but continue on a short scramble to the summit a very short distance away (Class 4, some 5.0-5.2 moves may be required)

Essential Gear

These are the Tetons and one should approach with respect. Ice axe, crampons, and helmet are advisable along with knowledge of how to use them. Conditions change daily in the Tetons. Be prepared.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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