Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
44.36680°N / 121.13631°W |
Route Type:
|
Multi Pitch Trad Route |
|
Time Required:
|
Half a day |
|
Difficulty:
|
5.6 |
|
Approach
Easiest approach is from the parking lot and across the bridge. From the bridge you follow the trail directly in front of you up several small switchbacks eventually reaching the base of the wall. It is easier from here to follow the base of the wall around to the base of the route rather than follow the main trail lower on the slope although having to go up and down a few times.
Route Description
The start of the route may be difficult to locate but is distinguishable by starting just to the left of a large recess and to the right of a bolted arete.
This is a very popular climb of its rating.
Pitch 1 (5.6) Ascend a ramp past a bulge to a well defined belay ledge.
This ledge is huge containing two seperate anchor chains as well as ample areas to protect with trad gear.
Pitch 2 (5.3) This pitch goes more left than up.(Probably only about 10' of height gain) Ascend off of the belay ledge and move immediately left toward a belay behind a block. This pitch is difficult to protect but handholds are bomber. NOTE: If you are not far enough to the left the route will become nearly impossible to protect.
Pitch 3 (5.6) This is a long pitch that follows the main crack to a climbers left. Alan Watt's Guide states gear to 2.5" but there is a short section that a #4 Camalot protects well. Follow the crack up until it tops out.
Descent: Two ways to descend
1: Double rope rappel to a large ledge below the belay ledge for the 3rd pitch off of bolted anchors-Short rappel off of slings to the ground
2: Scramble up a difficult 5.7 unexposed slab and make your way up and then down Misery Ridge
(Much Easier to rappel)
 |
Essential Gear
Make sure to bring an extra rope for the rappel. (A 60m will leave you about 15 feet shy of the belay ledge)
Quickdraws just don't work well for this route. Use runners (at least 12") due to the rope drag.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
rpc - Jan 31, 2005 12:50 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentHammer's information on Super Slab is dead on. We found out two things about it yesterday though:
(1) Pitches 1 and 2 link easily with a 60 meter rope (reasonable drag).
(2) Despite its popularity, pitch 1 still has some loose rock on it. Accidentally pulled off a 1X1 foot flake 2/3rds of the way up. Helmets are a real good idea.
cluck - Apr 2, 2007 3:31 pm - Hasn't voted
Better Descent OptionRather than rappel the route, a better option is to walk about 50 yards along the top of the pillar over to chains at the base of the 5.7 unprotectable slab for the walk-off option. A double-rope rappel takes you to the huge ledge at the top of P1 and you can rap to the ground from there. This way you're not rapping down on to a group trying to climb up.