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| Pacific to Atlantic   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 39.41350°N / 106.1259°W Route Type: Scramble Time Required: A long day Difficulty: Class 3
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| Page By: Aaron Johnson Created/Edited: May 25, 2004 / Jun 16, 2006 Object ID: 161046 Hits: 1170 Loading... Page Score: 86.15% - 1 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
ApproachFrom the interchange of Interstate 70 and Highway 24 at Copper Mountain, proceed south on Highway 24 5.8 miles. From the top of Freemont Pass on Highway 24, proceed north 5.2 miles. Take the unmarked turn-off for Mayflower Gulch, 1.4 miles north of Clinton Reservoir.
Passenger cars can park here. Vehicles with high clearance can proceed up the road if desired. 4WD capability is recommended in wet or snowy conditions. The road is not maintained and may be inaccessible, depending on the time of year. Park your vehicle out of the way at the mine ruins , 1.6 miles up Mayflower Gulch.
The route begins and is measured from this point.
Route DescriptionHead northeast from the mine ruins of Gilpin and bash through some willows, a necessary evil at the beginning and end of this route. The willows can be circumvented by heading further up the basin. Cross Mayflower creek and do an ascending traverse northward toward the end of Atlantic Peak's long west ridge. If you happen to intercept an old miner's trail, follow it up into the Pacific Creek drainage. You may pass at or below an old mine shaft. Cross Pacific Creek, ascend into the basin, strike directly north until you are directly west of Pacific Peak's complex west ridge.
Traverse across the upper Humbug Basin area northeast across Pacific's northwest slopes. Just short of the Pacific-Crystal Peak saddle, angle up toward the ridge over talus and large rock. At mile 2, you assume the ridge and follow it up the mountain due south. The view of Pacific's great north face will accompany you with awesome views as you rapidly gain altitude on this ridge (Class 2).
On the notch pinnacle, contour and climb, looking for stable areas in the rock. Go to the top of this pinnacle, then drop over to the south side via some easy Class 3 scrambling. In the notch, peer down Pacific's north face gully for a thrill. Climb up a shallow, dark gray gully about 100 feet to the top at mile 2.5. See below for return options regarding weather.
Proceed to Atlantic Peak, following Pacific's south ridge (Class 2), rock hopping and scrambling to the spacious saddle at 13,368 feet. Ascend 433 feet (Class 1) to Atlantic Peak . Descend Atlantic Peak's surprisingly challenging west ridge, a long scramble of just over 1 mile (Class 2+). If lingering snow is present, this ridge's difficulty can increase substantially. An ice axe is recommended, or expect possible Class 3 climbing to circumvent snow bridges, drifts and steep slopes.
As you drop off the ridge, look for the mine shaft below on the left. Drop down to the mine shaft, contouring back to the south as you pass it. You will likely intercept a miner's trail as you drop down through clearings amongst a thin forest. Follow it down into the valley. Look for a narrow spot in the willows for your crossing of Mayflower Gulch and aim for that location. If you plot your course right, willow bashing will be minimal. The willows can be circumvented by heading further up the basin.
BAD WEATHER BAIL ROUTES
PACIFIC PEAK
You can return down the north ridge route and retrace your route if it makes sense to do so. There are also several spots along the ridge between Pacific and Atlantic that would serve as bail routes into the Pacific Basin area, which would be closer to your vehicle. Be mindful of cliffs below when plotting your course. Several descent possibilities exist on Atlantic's northwest face as well. Expect loose rock and scree in these emergency descent options.
ATLANTIC PEAK
A steep gully just west of the summit may serve as a descent route. Expect loose rock, steep terrain and mild exposure. Descents down the mountain's northwest face are possible just west of the summit, and about half way down the ridge over steep rock. Be mindful of cliffs below. Observe your options on the northwest face while you are still on Pacific Peak. One possible descent to tundra exists on the south side of the ridge about half way down, but you must keep a sharp eye out for it. Rely on your route finding skills. Otherwise, descend the entire length of the ridge, as many cliffs line the base of the ridge and are almost unnoticeable from above. Do not be tempted by scree areas that look like well travelled descent options.
This route can be done in reverse. Expect loose talus when climbing Atlantic's west ridge up from the mine shaft. The ridge is a fun scramble over mostly solid Class 2 & 3 rock. Pacific Peak's notch is a fun scramble with mild exposure when executed in reverse.
Be sure to view the photos of this dynamic route. They illustrate the conditions you will encounter.
MILEAGES
Willow bashing .1 mile
Pacific Creek .5 mile
Pacific Creek crossing .8 mile
Traverse of Pacific Peak NW face 1.3 miles
Pacific Peak North Ridge 2.0 miles
Notch 2.4 miles
Summit 2.5 miles
Saddle 2.9 miles
Atlantic Peak Summit 3.2 miles
Finish Atlantic idge 4.3 miles
Willow bashing 4.7 miles
TOTALS:
4.8 miles round trip
2,430 feet elevation gain
Up to 3 additional miles with the road, depending on where you park your vehicle, and an additional 500 feet of gain.
    
Essential GearSUMMER AND FALL
Standard dayhike gear will do. If ascending any gully or ridge with lots of rock climbing, bring a helmet, as loose rock is abundant on these mountains. Good hiking boots are a must for the many hours of scrambling you will encounter on this route.
SPRING
Early season ascents should include snowshoes or skis along with crampons. Snow persists through June in this area. Bring an ice axe at the minimum. If you anticipate climbing in gullies or descending down steep slopes, a helmet is recommended. Melt out causes lots of rockfall on these mountains well into late spring. Avalanche debris will be apparent throughout the entire area.
WINTER
Full winter gear is required, along with the experience to use it. Concerning snowpack conditions and avalanche probability, use your informed judgment before proceeding. Under the right conditions, this is an excellent ski mountaineering area.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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