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| Triple Crown   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 38.92900°N / 106.381°W Route Type: Scramble Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: Class 2
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| Page By: Aaron Johnson Created/Edited: Aug 15, 2004 / Aug 28, 2006 Object ID: 161828 Hits: 1442 Loading... Page Score: 86.56% - 2 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Route Intent & NameThis route enables the climber to ascend three mountains, including the popular fourteener, Missouri Mountain. If you’re doing the fourteener tick list, this is a great way to climb Missouri plus two other outstanding high peaks. You’ll also briefly escape the hordes so frequently encountered on the fourteeners.
If your intent is to climb Emerald and Iowa Peaks “fast and dirty” (skipping the epic backpack and camping possibilities), this is a good alternative. The South Slopes route, discussed in the ROUTE OPTIONS section is a good day outing, but expect a fading trail and bushwacking possibilities. A very long day will also result if climbing from Elkhead Pass via Missouri Gulch, but this too is a viable option. The most expedient route for all three mountains is this route, dubbed the Triple Crown, which can be executed in around ten hours or less if your party is in good physical condition.
Expect Class 2 terrain and crowded conditions on Missouri Mountain. On the descent from Missouri to Iowa, the crowds should die off to nothing, although it is possible some folks will be present on the route to Iowa. Emerald is also climbed occasionally (see this TRIP REPORT), but chances are good you’ll have the mountain to yourself.
The route was dubbed “Triple Crown” due to the unexpected splash of color encountered on these three mountains. Missouri, a gigantic talus heap, is actually a stunning mountain to behold from these peaks. Rugged and full of bright color, Missouri’s appearance is a refreshing reminder of how beautiful the mountain really is. Emerald and Iowa each have their own distinct character, but interestingly enough, both have a brief spattering of pure white quartz (see photos). Iowa’s tundra is flanked by rotten cliffs and couloirs filled with talus and scree, while Emerald is a stately peak made up of tundra and steep, black talus and boulders stacked precariously into a towering dome profile. Tucked in the wilderness and overseer of one of Colorado’s great primitive vistas, Emerald is the jewel of the Triple Crown route.
Missouri Mountain, Iowa and Emerald Peaks are all climbed via the Triple Crown route
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson
ApproachSee the GETTING THERE section on the main page.
Be sure to sign in at the trailhead register, and state which peaks you intend to climb. Should an incident occur, be sure the SAR team knows where to look for you!
Not far beyond the trailhead is a sign marking east face access for Huron Peak. Follow the road from the parking area to a gate. Proceed, and further beyond the gate, the road drops toward Clohesy Lake to a private cabin. Go left on a small trail where a sign post once presumably held a sign marking the Missouri Mountain trail. The trail drops a bit before climbing to the east up steep slopes. As the trail begins to drop before the lake, look sharp for a trail that bypasses this drop on your left, but if you miss it (which would be easy), that is alright.
The trail climbs up the slopes to an intersection marked with a cairn. Remember this spot. On your return, you can take the trail you missed minutes earlier and not drop down needlessly! This return trail heads directly through the trees, and the cairn is your indicator.
Route DescriptionProceed up the trail, which switchbacks in steep, direct fashion. Fallen trees will be encountered and you may loose the trail. Use your route finding abilities to stay on the route. Cross the trees as much as possible to stay on the route. The trail will climb into Missouri’s West Basin along a tumbling creek. Unmaintained and very steep, expect steep scree, boulders and loose rock.
Once in the basin, Missouri Mountain will be looking down upon you from the east. Veer to your far left and climb north-northwest up steep tundra to gain Missouri’s West Ridge (covered in brief fashion here). Do as SP member Wayne Afflick recommends and stay on the ridge. Resist the temptation to climb in an angling traverse across the slope to cut off your distance. You’ll pay for it with steep scree and talus that is more trouble than it’s worth. By staying on the ridge, you’ll be on good tundra most of the time.
Follow the ridge up, where the route will intersect with the standard Northwest Ridge Route for Missouri Mountain. Follow this well worn path to Missouri’s summit. Just shy of the summit is some class 2 scrambling along some rock outcroppings. The crux move on this ridge (and this route) is found here. The heavy traffic has tamped the scree into hardpack and good footing through this spot is now at a premium. Proceed with caution through several other climbing problems (easy Class 2) to the summit.
Once on the summit of Missouri, leave the crowds and descend the South Ridge (Class 2). This ridge line has seen traffic as well. Hardpacked scree will be encountered. Staying on the rocks will provide better footing. From the saddle, ascend south-southwest up tundra and rock (Class 2) up the north ridge of Iowa Peak. Cross over the brief false summit and enjoy the plateau enroute to the true summit a minute or two beyond.
Weather and conditions permitting, proceed south to Emerald Peak by descending broad and gentle tundra slopes on Iowa’s south side. Aim for a spot of tundra on the left side of Emerald, just left of an orange scree field. Climb this tundra to Emerald’s northeast ridge and follow it to the summit over Class 2 boulders.
Return the same route, bypassing Iowa’s summit plateau on the east. See this TRIP REPORT for more details.
DISTANCE: 8.6 miles round trip
GAIN: 4954 feet
More Route PhotosEssential GearStandard day hike provisions will do. If snow is expected, an ice axe and crampons would be highly recommended, particularly on Missouri Mountain.
Triple Crown Iowa West Ridge ChallengeThe West Ridge of Iowa is mentioned in Jennifer & Gerry Roach’s “Colorado’s Thirteeners-From Hikes to Climbs” as one being best suited for the “well balanced.” Gnarly in appearance, this route option would make a great loop or variation that would bypass the crowded conditions of Missouri Mountain. Bypassing Missouri means not executing the entire Triple Crown route, but for the record here at SP, it would establish a loop possibility and a new route altogether. Perhaps there is an SP member out there up to the challenge of attempting this route and contributing it here?
The route will likely be hard Class 3 and possibly Class 4. Expect steep tundra and loose rock as well as exposed scrambling.
Once in Missouri’s west basin, continue east and look sharp to your right (south) for a tundra clearing between the two rock glaciers below Iowa’s rugged northwest slopes and cliffs. From here, scurry south up steep tundra between Iowa and its subpeak to the west. A nature trail, likely used by resident goats, zig-zags up talus to a saddle, where you hang a left and climb east up Iowa’s West Ridge to a pinnacle and notch. Climbing directly over the pinnacle and into the notch may be the crux of the route. Skirting the pinnacle on the south side is possible, albeit through loose and exposed terrain.
Above the notch, steep climbing on loose rock, likely on a narrow ridge, will take you to the summit plateau. As the steepness relents, the loose rock will continue until you reach the tundra of the plateau.
Ascent and descent of this route for Emerald and Iowa would bypass Missouri Mountain. A loop is possible by ascending this route and descending Missouri’s West Ridge Route, or executing the Triple Crown Route described above and descending this route.
See this TRIP REPORT for more details.
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Sawatch Range
