Trift Glacier to Triftgrat (Normal)

From the NW. Part of the trail on the route across the glacier is visible

Overview

There can be steep spots

Though it is not the easiest way up the mountain, this route has long been the normal way from the Weissmies Hut and since the building of the cableway to Hohsaas is certainly the most climbed route on the mountain. The route is called by several different names. Goedeke calls it the North-West Face and West Ridge in his guide. Now days, many people refer to it simply as the Normal Route. Taking the gondola to Hohsaas removes about one hour of hiking from the time taken from the Weissmies Hut and makes it possible to climb the peak in one day from the valley. There are overnight accommodations available at the Bergrestaurant Hohsaas for those who wish to get an early start.

Approach

Approaching the glacier

There is a well established trail to Hohsaas from the Weissmies Hut - time about one hour. There is also a cableway to Hohsaas. From Hohsaas, there is a trail and ramp (almost a road) to the edge of the glacier.

Route Description

Weissmies Normal Route from Hohsaas

From Hohsaas, the route climbs about 1050 meters and takes 3 to 4 hours to the summit. Cross the Trift Glacier on a flat section above the icefall and large crevasse field to the shoulder leading to the West Summit. Climb this almost to the West Summit and bear climber's left to the saddle on the ridge. Unless there is new snow, there will almost certainly be a good track to follow.

Parties on glacier

Climbing through the crevasses

Climbing through the crevasses

From here, follow the ridge (cornices) to the summit.

Summit Ridge

Summit Ridge

Summit Ridge

As with any glacier and snow /ice route, conditions vary from year to year and by time of year. Later in the season crevasses present more of a problem on this route, and recently guides have placed ladders and bridges to facilitate crossing some of the worst of these.

2003

2003

Essential Gear

Glacier travel gear.