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Siberia, East, 5.7-5.10b
Mountain/Rock

Siberia, East, 5.7-5.10b

 
Siberia, East, 5.7-5.10b

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.06956°N / 116.17321°W

Object Title: Siberia, East, 5.7-5.10b

Activities: Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Feb 7, 2016 / Jan 21, 2017

Object ID: 965264

Hits: 354 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Gandy, 5.9
Gandy, 5.9

Some of the last remaining routes for me to explore in Joshua Tree National Park were obviously the most remote. Big Horn Dihedral is one of my absolute favorite routes in the park and is listed in Miramontes guide as being the most remote climb in the entire park. On our hike through to do Big Horn, we passed through Wonderland North. We parked at the backcountry trail head for Boy Scout and Willow Hole trails and hiked to Big Horn Dihedral and then hiked out to Indian Cove. In doing so, we passed by an obvious wall on our left named East Siberia which is one of if not the largest granite face in the Entrance to Wonderland North and marks in Miramontes guide where true Wonderland North starts.  On my next trip, I returned to climb its routes.
 
Dos Chi Chi s, 5.10a
2nd Pitch, Dos Chi Chi's, 5.10a

The main attraction for many will be that most of East Siberia's routes are sport routes which is unusual at Jree.  It is also a quick flat approach hike despite Miramontes calling it 2.5 miles.  It seemed shorter.  Miramontes has one 5.10a “sport route” in his guide labeled with four stars and one with three stars out of his entire book (2nd edition).  Dos Chi Chi’s is the listed three star sport climb in the guide and was the first one I hopped on. It is a true two pitch route with the 5.10a portion encountered on the second pitch.  The second pitch, albeit short, offers the most unique sport climbing on the wall; slab moves up a high arete. There are three trad climbs on this face with the rest being well bolted sport routes (2015). These bolted routes do not have the typical run out you see on a lot of slab and face climbs throughout the park. This also is possibly the heaviest concentration of moderate leads in the entire park (5.8-5.10). So have a second option in mind before hiking back here, for I have seen a large group of New York college kids congregate below the entire wall.

Leave the trail heading as you would for Gilligan’s Island, Hidden Dome, etc. Stay on the Boy Scout Trail around the left side of Gilligan’s Island until you come to a fork. Take the right fork for Willow Hole. At this point you can make out two obvious features in the distance to the north: Timbuktu Towers straight ahead and Eastern Siberia to the northwest. Look for an obvious southeast facing wall. Leave the Willow Hole trail, well before Timbuktu, on a climbers trail heading west for the base of the wall. There are several boulder hoping approach options. You are heading for the base of the main face, see the photo that marks the location of Dos Chi Chi's.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

  • Leon Redbone- 5.9**

  • Randy- 5.8

  • A Bull with Gas- 5.9* /A Bull with Gas and Love Gas share the same start up a shallow corner with old fixed gear mixed with the bolts (2015). Love Gas offers more interesting climbing at the grade high up on its face. They parallel each other but Bull stops when it reaches the first fixed rap whereas Love keeps going to a second fixed rap. Well bolted fairly large holds for the grade.  Dow

  • Love Gas- 5.10a** /The 5.10 climbing is past the first fixed station. I led the route as one total pitch. The many varnished features disappear and you start making the typical slab smearing on vertical ground with the crux coming at a hard traverse left to reach the second fixed station. Two raps with a single to get down. Well bolted. It deserves the two star guide book rating.  Dow

  • Showers with Dad- 5.10b**

  • Hollywood Rattlesnake- 5.9**

  • Yasmine Bleeth- 5.9** /Yasmine parallels Dos Chi Chi’s to the first fixed station and stops. The crux is in the bottom third and cruises up from there. These are the first two routes I led in the morning when I got to the crag and thought Dos Chi Chi’s definitely was the 5.10 and Yasmine a 5.9 (as the guide has them), but witnessed someone else struggle on Yasmine and he thought it the other way around. Pulling through the roof before the final couple of bolts is the highlight but necessarily the crux, as it is juggy.  Dow

  • Dos Chi Chi’s- 5.10a*** /This is one of the higher rated 5.10a sport climbs in the park supposedly. I am mostly a trad climber and was not overly impressed but it was worthy. The highlight for sure is the second pitch slab arête. You could combine pitches for a full 70m lead with only inches to spare, but most will prefer stopping at the large ledge that divides the wall. The slab arête finish to the top is the 5.10 climbing. The first half of the first pitch offers a crux that requires just one sequence choice (left, not right) or you will find yourself in 5.11 territory.  If done correctly, no move should be harder than 5.9 on this first pitch.  Miramontes’ guide references three raps, but only two are necessary with a 70 rope. Bypass the ledge anchor on the way down for two raps with a 70m.  Dow

  • Grandy- 5.9* /This route is located on a short tower in front of the main wall. It climbs the obvious fun arête with the crux at the bulge near the top, after the last clip. Short route, but definitely worth doing. Fully bolted. Rap from the top.  Dow

  • Crossroads Finish- 5.7**

  • George’s Route aka Binder- 5.8**

  • Toby- 5.9**

  • Weo- 5.7**
  • Images

    East SiberiaGandy, 5.9East SiberiaEast SiberiaEast SiberiaDos Chi Chi\'s, 5.10a