OverviewVery interesting itinerary that can be done in a day if properly trained.
The starting point is the village of Melago(1912m), placed at the head of "Vallelunga di dentro", part of the major Valvenosta.
Alog the route the refuge Pio XI(2542m), could be useful for a more relaxed route.(during the spring the refuge is open only for skiers in the weekend).
The route is quite long, more than 1800 meters drop, and exposed for the all lengh on the north side of the massif. That permit very good snow untill the late spring.
Better than the routes from "Maso corto" in Valsenales; shorter, faster but exposed on the south side.
The route is never difficult, except to avoid few big crevasses on the glacier, and below the summit, where the slope reaches 40°/45°. Along the rocky ridge, passages of II°.
The routeFrom Melago, go across the flat valley first, and than up to his head, near the cable car of the refuge.
Let the summer path left (you can walk in case of bad snow conditions) and continue on the bottom of the valley, keeping to the opposite side of the steep wall below the refuge Pio XI.
Climb the moraine at the base of the slopes descending from the glacier "Barba d'orso".
Continue without loosing meters and than turn right to reach the base of the glacier Vallunga.
Cross it keeping the right side, then climb aiming the bridge between the crevasses, with a prudent distance.
With a wide semicircle to the right, on moderate slopes always, continue along the ridge of Punta Vallunga to the Sella Weisskugel (3362 m).
From here, the east flank of the mountain is visible. Climb in the center of it, on easy slope in the begin, and than steeper and steeper.
Left the skies when is impossible to carry on with them. Climb on foot the last part (40°/45°)untill the “anticima sud”, and by a rocky ridge the main peak (II°).