Map of the Peak and the park
Inside the city limits of Eugene, Oregon lies a locally popular crag called the Skinners Butte Columns. The Columns are a top roping trad climbing site. It is not very extensive but has 56 documented routes and variations. The columns are approximatly 45' ft tall with routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.13a. With bouldering and fixed line routes it makes a great place to brush up on skills before heading out to the bigger crags.
The area has been popular to local climbers since the 1940's and has been developed quite nicely by the Eugene parks and Open spaces department. There are at least eight bolted anchor points along the rim of the crag making top roping popular. There is many folks who come to practice trad and aid climbing.
The rock is columnar basalt and most climbing is fist and foot jamming with some friction/slab available also. Manteling stemming, and Jugging are also part of the many tools of movement up these routes.
The crag is also popular as a training site for local clubs and organizations such asEugene Mountain Rescue, University of Oregon Outdoor Program and theThe Obsidians Outdoor Club .
The most popular route for crack climbing is called the Fat crack I also found this little tid bit from Mountain project covers a half dozen more routes.
It is extremely popular because of its' being near downtown and the river greenway. Come early in the day for availability of routes. Climbing earlier in the year, after winter rain is better because the rock is cleaner. It is also less polished by the many feet that smear the rock as the year progresses.
Nearby the columns are an R.E.I store to rent shoes and Helmet and the local climbing gym Crux Rock Gym to get a lesson are meet other ambitious climbing folks.
Getting ThereThe Columns are located in the City of Eugene at Skinner Butte Park. To get there from the north Take the Interstate-5 exit 191-A going west on I-105/126 crossing the Willamette river the freeway heads south.( at this point the columns are visible to the east) exit onto 7th ave/downtown. Proceed two traffic signals to Lincoln street. Take left On Lincoln st go north 4 blocks till you climb the Butte. The Columns we will be to your right.
Coming from the south on I-5 take exit 191-B going west bound on the I-105/126 freeway. after crossing the Willamette river, the freeway proceeds south. Take the 7th ave/downtown exit, proceed two traffic signals to Lincoln St. Take left at Lincoln st proceed 4 blocks north till you begin to climb the Butte. The Columns are to your right.