see approach to Standard Route on the Routes Summary page. Begin at the left end of the Launch Pad.
The first pitch ascends the lower slabs, aiming for one of the birch trees (there are several that are visible from here; this is the middle one) just below and left of the prominent arch above the Launch Pad. The two-bolt belay is just right of the tree, not left (sorry to get on your case, Tom :)). Alternately, you could also use the two-bolt anchor at the base of the arch, although this is normally used for the arch variation on Standard Route.
WARNING: although this pitch is rated only 5.2 or 5.3, it can be terrifying for a mentally and psychologically unprepared leader. The R rating is really closer to X; after a couple of quartz pockets, there is literally nothing for probably a hundred feet. Normally one thinks of 5.3 as being an easy jugfest; this is a low-angle, slightly undulating slab with no "holds" to speak of; you basically walk up and pray that you won't screw up. Once you've started, there's really no way of getting pack.
The next pitch is the crux and, though technically a lot harder than the first, is psycholigally much better, because the crux section has two bolts within a reasonable distance of each other. A screw-up here will still make for a good-sized fall, so don't blow it, but it's not nearly as bad as the first pitch. The third pitch is quite runout as well, but there's a bolt in the middle as well as something resembling a crack which appears intermittently along the otherwise featureless slabs. The fourth pitch is the most pleasant to lead, and much more conventional: after a short section of delicate friction off the anchor, you reach a nice flake/crack, with (finally) good protection! The rest of the climbing is very enjoyable and reasonably protected. Belay on a small stance with two "fixed" nuts (obviously you will want to back them up...)
The fifth pitch ends this illusion of normaly with more runout slab climbing. A note of warning: I reccomend avoiding the temptation to follow the dike that leads directly up, towards the dark overlaps. Instead, traverse right and head up another dike; it is much better protected, and ascends more directly to the next anchor.
Pitch 6 climbs through the final overlap with one slightly scary move; there is protection, but it's below your feet when you make the crux move. It's not very difficult, though, once you do it. After that the climbing becomes really easy; belay here at one of several stances (no bolts here; gear anchors required).
The rest of the route follows the finish to Standard Route.
Despite the relative lack of protection, carry a normal rack. A good selection of tri-cams is highly reccomended for the solution pockets in those lower slabs...I only had two, and that was not nearly enough. Some small Aliens will also come in handy...
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