Mountain Loop Highway > Sloan Peak > Climber's LogSloan Peak Climber's Log
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[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
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| ernestsson | Stopped at the 'Heather' Ledge Date Climbed: May 28, 2013 | |
| Intended to take the Corkscrew route. Got to the trailhead late one night, woke up and hit the trail at 5am. Still lots of snow on the approach, starting shortly after the first crossing of Cougar Creek. Put down a basecamp and continued on, hoping to catch the summit. Crossed the Sloan Glacier in slow-going soft snow and intermittent white-out conditions. Got to the transition to the 'heather' ledge from the glacier but stymied there. Hard to see where it was supposed to go, lots of snow and rocks poking out. Our attempts to make the transition revealed lots of holes and 'moats' around rocks. Also ran out of energy, turned back, crashed at camp. Decided not to follow around with it on the second day and hiked out. | |
| Posted Jun 11, 2013 2:13 am | ||
| tcingrum | Sloan  | |
| Bedal basin approach. Short scramble up to corkscrew. | |
| Posted Sep 19, 2012 10:49 pm | ||
| kevinsa | Sloan Peak Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009 | |
| Came in from Bedal Basin. From talking with other climbers, this sounds like an easier route. | |
| Posted Sep 15, 2012 9:21 pm | ||
| bcory2003 | Great Route! Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012 | |
| This route has a bit of everything to it, and makes for a very long and demanding day! Went out this past Saturday with a buddy of mine. Left Seattle at 5am and got back just before midnight. Had great weather and the glacier was still in excellent shape with no crevasses blocking the direct route across. From the top we could see from Baker all the way down to Adams, and had great views of all the ranges in between! | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2012 3:40 pm | ||
| Vic Hanson | Great summit views Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012 | |
| August 2012 glaciers - 3. Great climb, camped on the saddle just before the glacier, checked out the west side then traversed around the glacier and did the corkscrew. Great views with clouds below us, warm weather and good snow. | |
| Posted Aug 11, 2012 1:32 am | ||
| beaudaddy85 | Long Day Corkscrewin Around Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010 | |
| Gimpilator and I did this climb in one long day. Left the trailhead at dark and returned to the truck at dark. Car to summit in 7.5 hours and summit to car in 6. Made it up to the high camp in under 4 hours at a good pace, but the Glacier slowed us down a lot. Glacier was really broken up so we took some time navigating around all the crevasses and thin bridges. The views were the best I have seen so save this one for good conditions and a clear day for the views. Amazing!!! | |
| Posted Oct 4, 2010 5:36 pm | ||
| gimpilator | With Beaudaddy Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010 | |
| This peak has the best views I've ever seen and one of the most interesting routes to match. The glacier was really broken up and gave us a bit of trouble. We had to double back a couple times. I made a Trip Report and video. Larger Size | |
| Posted Oct 3, 2010 2:39 am | ||
| Doehle | Corkscrew Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010 | |
| Pretty pleasant day, with mostly clouds and some sun. Long day with lots of variety. | |
| Posted Aug 23, 2010 2:10 pm | ||
| RSBARNES | Great times Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2009 | |
| Up and down in a day. Great trip. Glacier was really broken up. Had to climb a 20 ft. 80 degree head wall to get up to the rock cliff. Good times. | |
| Posted Apr 12, 2010 9:46 pm | ||
| ericwillhite | A bit too early in the season Date Climbed: May 28, 2005 | |
| What a climb, great mountain. Bears, raging rivers, lost in the bog, got out alive...barely. Story, pics and map at http://www.willhiteweb.com/washington_climbing/monte_cristo/sloan_peak_075.htm | |
| Posted Sep 3, 2009 2:42 am | ||
| RomaK | The Corkscrew in a day Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2009 | |
| Great day out. It rained on and off on the ascent but cleared up and stayed nice while we were on the glacier. On the way up, we didn't take the high traverse on the glacier and had to cross a couple snow bridges, including a very thin one over a large crevasse. Took a high traverse on the way back, which was very straightforward. Also, we were able to cross all the rivers without wading at this time. The trail traversing the summit block was gorgeous! Car to car in 11.5 hours. | |
| Posted Jul 26, 2009 12:29 pm | ||
| Mr. Clam | North Ridge solo attempt Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008 | |
| Climbed with dory to the start of the technical section then went on solo, poor visibility and sketchy free soloing turned me around a few hundred feet from the top. | |
| Posted Nov 3, 2008 8:05 pm | ||
| Pantilat | Corkscrew Speed Climb Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2007 | |
| 7:10 roundtrip including nearly 36 minutes on the summit. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/714390/page/1#Post714390 | |
| Posted Sep 5, 2007 6:50 pm | ||
| iluka | Corkscrew Route Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2006 | |
| Awesome route. Doable in a day but nice to bivy up near the entry point onto the glacier. | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2007 12:17 am | ||
| jasonconnell | Corkscrew Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2006 | |
| Great day. Trailhead camped the night before, left the car at 7:00am and back at 6:30pm. Fun climb with AMAZING views. | |
| Posted Sep 17, 2006 3:44 am | ||
| osatrik | Cougar Creek / Corkscrew Date Climbed: Aug 27, 1995 | |
| It was a georgeous summer weekend, and we had the mountain to ourselves -- couldn't believe it. This route is a memorable one because of the variety, the great location, and the changing vista as you work your way up the Corkscrew. | |
| Posted Sep 2, 2006 6:20 am | ||
| dicey | Corkscrew route Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2006 | |
| Perfect conditions - Cloudy low, sunny high | ||
| Posted Aug 22, 2006 6:26 am | ||
| Andy Dewey | Route Climbed: Corkscrew Route Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006 | |
| Awesome day, fun climb! Saw 3 goats and LOTS of bugs! | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2006 11:00 pm | ||
| Snidely Whiplash | Route Climbed: The Corkscrew Route Date Climbed: Sep 6, 1988 | |
| An amazing route. Neat ledge system circling the peak. | |
| Posted Feb 23, 2006 4:12 pm | ||
| setrent | Route Climbed: Corkscrew Date Climbed: 30 sept, 2003 | |
| The quintessential Cascades climb. A water crossing, old growth, scree, glacier, third class rock, and a lot of elevation gain for some great views. A classic. Car to car in 14 hours. | ||
| Posted Dec 26, 2005 10:04 pm | ||
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