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Sloan Peak Climber's Log

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RedwicTwice the pain...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2017


... once the gain. Trying twice in one weekend, for a cumulative gain of 10,000', was not fun. Different parties on consecutive days. Completely worn out and felt sick afterwards.
Posted Jul 24, 2017 8:46 pm

ZakGCorkscrew   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2002


A beautiful and fun route. Everybody loves Sloan Peak. It is the Michael J Fox of mountains.
Posted Apr 30, 2017 2:51 am

Matt LemkeWest Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2015

Matt Lemke

Climbed the 5.7 Route on the west face as a day trip. Descended the south ledges route with just one rappel, but we had to make a 2nd rappel down the 20 degree icy snow at the bottom as we didn't have ice axes or traction. I found a nice 30 meter rope on the descent! Such an awesome day.
Posted Jan 12, 2016 9:29 pm

seanoNorth ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2014


I tried this route on a lark, and it was mostly easy, with a bit of low 5th getting through two notches below the summit. Came down the corkscrew. This is definitely a high value-for-effort peak. Trip report.
Posted Jul 19, 2014 12:39 pm

relicSE ledges  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2013


Solo, via the SE face ramp. This late in the year, the small glacier had receded enough from the ramp beginning that the first 50 feet bordered on low angle class 5.
Posted Aug 22, 2013 10:55 am

VinnySomers Memorial climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2013


Awesome day with the Somers brothers commemorating 40th anniversary of Wally Somers disappearance. Meaningful climb with Oyvind, Steve and Dave. I won't forget it.
Posted Jul 31, 2013 11:29 pm

ernestssonStopped at the 'Heather' Ledge
Date Climbed: May 28, 2013


Intended to take the Corkscrew route. Got to the trailhead late one night, woke up and hit the trail at 5am. Still lots of snow on the approach, starting shortly after the first crossing of Cougar Creek. Put down a basecamp and continued on, hoping to catch the summit. Crossed the Sloan Glacier in slow-going soft snow and intermittent white-out conditions. Got to the transition to the 'heather' ledge from the glacier but stymied there. Hard to see where it was supposed to go, lots of snow and rocks poking out. Our attempts to make the transition revealed lots of holes and 'moats' around rocks. Also ran out of energy, turned back, crashed at camp. Decided not to follow around with it on the second day and hiked out.
Posted Jun 11, 2013 2:13 am

tcingrumSloan  Sucess!


Bedal basin approach. Short scramble up to corkscrew.
Posted Sep 19, 2012 10:49 pm

kevinsaSloan Peak  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009


Came in from Bedal Basin. From talking with other climbers, this sounds like an easier route.
Posted Sep 15, 2012 9:21 pm

bcory2003Great Route!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012


This route has a bit of everything to it, and makes for a very long and demanding day!

Went out this past Saturday with a buddy of mine. Left Seattle at 5am and got back just before midnight. Had great weather and the glacier was still in excellent shape with no crevasses blocking the direct route across. From the top we could see from Baker all the way down to Adams, and had great views of all the ranges in between!
Posted Aug 27, 2012 3:40 pm

Vic HansonGreat summit views  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012

Vic Hanson

August 2012 glaciers - 3. Great climb, camped on the saddle just before the glacier, checked out the west side then traversed around the glacier and did the corkscrew. Great views with clouds below us, warm weather and good snow.
Posted Aug 11, 2012 1:32 am

beaudaddy85Long Day Corkscrewin Around  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010


Gimpilator and I did this climb in one long day. Left the trailhead at dark and returned to the truck at dark. Car to summit in 7.5 hours and summit to car in 6. Made it up to the high camp in under 4 hours at a good pace, but the Glacier slowed us down a lot. Glacier was really broken up so we took some time navigating around all the crevasses and thin bridges. The views were the best I have seen so save this one for good conditions and a clear day for the views. Amazing!!!
Posted Oct 4, 2010 5:36 pm

gimpilatorWith Beaudaddy  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010


This peak has the best views I've ever seen and one of the most interesting routes to match. The glacier was really broken up and gave us a bit of trouble. We had to double back a couple times. I made a Trip Report and video.

Larger Size
Posted Oct 3, 2010 2:39 am

DoehleCorkscrew  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010


Pretty pleasant day, with mostly clouds and some sun. Long day with lots of variety.
Posted Aug 23, 2010 2:10 pm

RSBARNESGreat times  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2009


Up and down in a day. Great trip. Glacier was really broken up. Had to climb a 20 ft. 80 degree head wall to get up to the rock cliff. Good times.
Posted Apr 12, 2010 9:46 pm

ericwillhiteA bit too early in the season  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 28, 2005


What a climb, great mountain. Bears, raging rivers, lost in the bog, got out alive...barely. Story, pics and map at http://www.willhiteweb.com/washington_climbing/monte_cristo/sloan_peak_075.htm
Posted Sep 3, 2009 2:42 am

RomaKThe Corkscrew in a day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2009


Great day out. It rained on and off on the ascent but cleared up and stayed nice while we were on the glacier. On the way up, we didn't take the high traverse on the glacier and had to cross a couple snow bridges, including a very thin one over a large crevasse. Took a high traverse on the way back, which was very straightforward. Also, we were able to cross all the rivers without wading at this time. The trail traversing the summit block was gorgeous! Car to car in 11.5 hours.
Posted Jul 26, 2009 12:29 pm

Mr. ClamNorth Ridge solo attempt
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008

Mr. Clam

Climbed with dory to the start of the technical section then went on solo, poor visibility and sketchy free soloing turned me around a few hundred feet from the top.
Posted Nov 3, 2008 8:05 pm

PantilatCorkscrew Speed Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2007


7:10 roundtrip including nearly 36 minutes on the summit.
Posted Sep 5, 2007 6:50 pm

ilukaCorkscrew Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2006


Awesome route. Doable in a day but nice to bivy up near the entry point onto the glacier.
Posted Jul 22, 2007 12:17 am

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