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Smith: Monkey Face Climber's Log

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SawtoothSeanOriginal Route
Date Climbed: Mar 12, 2014


Made it up the bolt ladder and into the mouth. Very cool climbing and easy aid
Posted Apr 1, 2014 9:44 pm

bedellympianwest face var  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2013


rain and thunder didn't stop us but my butter fingers almost did
Posted Aug 11, 2013 10:38 pm

SKIGood times!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2011


With Shaner. Bolt ladder was cool enough. Blistering hot outside. Got to tyrol across to the diving board.
Posted Sep 4, 2011 11:18 pm

ExcitableBoyPioneers route  Sucess!


Did this route a couple of times. Along with Zebra-Zion one of my favorites in the park.
Posted Dec 28, 2010 9:30 am

noahs213Amazing  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2010


One amazing climb.
Posted Jul 2, 2010 5:09 am

Vinnyfun times  Sucess!


I think the first time I did this was with Corey and Alex (about 6 at the time- went on to be a competitive climber). really neat place and great first bolt ladder for me : )
awesome exposure. I get the willys thinking about the tightrope walk option.
Posted May 28, 2010 12:13 pm

skookGreat Exposure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009


Great exposure stepping out of the mouth! Great climb.
Posted Mar 18, 2010 2:40 am

Mr. ClamPioneer  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 31, 2008

Mr. Clam

A great climb, did the bolt ladder with no aiders and had a bit of trouble but not too bad.
Posted Apr 1, 2008 12:40 am

spotlyPioneer Route
Date Climbed: May 6, 2006


Climbed with Brian F. Got a bit off on the first pitch and lowered down to the start of pitch 2 LOL. What a blast coming over the notch then out the mouth. Good stuff. Not a single soul seen the entire climb...on a nice Saturday!
Posted Jul 20, 2007 3:35 pm

pvalchevWest face + Pioneer  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006


Very cool climb... did draw pull-ups on the way up the A0 pitch, no need for 'aid gear' as there are lots of footholds and the bolts are really close together. Awesome double rope rappel!
Posted Aug 19, 2006 6:11 am

Dow WilliamsWest Face Variation  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2006

Dow Williams

We pulled on our draws instead of aiding...goes easy and fast. Definitely better than the Pioneer route. Those bottom two pitches are great. Not Utah, but still fun.
Posted Aug 19, 2006 5:16 am

Scott DusekPioneer Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2006

Scott Dusek

Awesome to finally climb the monkey face. The bolt ladder was interesting. We did some kind of variation out of panic point that traversed right and took us all the way to the top, prolonging the crazy exposure. I'd rate the variation as 5.8 with a healthy 25ft plus runout at one point, totally worth it, must've combined a few routes.

Posted Jul 17, 2006 8:22 am

M and N DenyerRoute Climbed: Pioneer Route/Monkey Off My Back Date Climbed: October 16, 2005  Sucess!

M and N Denyer

Enjoyed another climb up the Monkey on a beautiful fall day at Smith. The Monkey Off My Back pitch was exciting and definitely highlighted the exposure well. As always, fun rappel.
Posted Oct 31, 2005 1:41 pm

Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: Pioneer Route with Monkey Off My Back finish variation Date Climbed: October 16, 2005  Sucess!

Brian Jenkins

Whew, finally stood on top. With M and N Denyer. First pitch easy. Second Pitch no problems. We were the third party of 4 this day to do the Big Primate. Weather was sunny and about 70. Aid pitch went off pretty quick without a hitch. Didn't even get cold in the Mouth. I made Mark tell me he was just doing the easy route up to the Nose but of course, he did not. So, not only did I get the pucker of Panic Point, had to do the 5.8 traverse while gripped out several hundred overhung feet off the deck. Many profanities later....................... I was standing on the top. Then, the long twisting free air rap. Was glad to get this one done and thanks to the Denyers for the great weekend at Smith.

Posted Oct 16, 2005 10:52 pm

PellucidWombatRoute Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: September 3rd, 2005  Sucess!


Climbed this awesome spire with Dirk on an extended trip to OR to climb the 3 Sisters. I expected that I could just jug up the aid pitch, but instead I had to learn how to aid climb on the spot (and in the dark) to clean the pitch! I never realized how exausting aid climbing was until then :-)

I tried to wimp out at the cave, but Dirk insisted on finishing, and I'm glad we did! The views were wonderful, and the rappel in the dark was freaky, especially as the wind began spinning me!
Posted Sep 17, 2005 7:19 pm

DigglerRoute Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: 3 September, 2005  Sucess!


Awesome formation, enjoyable climb! First attempt at aid.

Having driven in from NorCal the night before, got a late start, leaving the parking lot at 15.25. Started the climb at 17.20.

First 2 pitches were easy but fun. Bolt ladder pitch took awhile, but not overly difficult except for that piece of shit adjustable daisy chain that I just could NOT figure out how to use correctly- whenever I weighted it, it would slowly start extending! Panic point was aptly named- knowing the rope ran over a reasonably sharp edge from the belay cave, & the deep, sucking void directly below me in the dark, had me clinging to those buckets for dear life (not to mention sitting around in a cave getting chilled and cramped for an hour or 2 also beforehand!)- definitely the most psychologically taxing 5.7 I've done! Final 'pitch' was short, easy, & enjoyable. Finally topped out @ 12.37. Seeing the lights of Terrebonne & Bend below & being under the stars was really cool.

Free-hanging rappel in the dark was sweet!
Posted Sep 8, 2005 12:15 pm

hkutukRoute Climbed: West Face Variation Date Climbed: June 11, 2005  Sucess!


This was simply an awesome climb. This was my third attempt (all from different routes) and finally standing on top of this pillar was incredible. Climbed with Jim first the 3-pitch West Face Variation to Bohn street. These additional 3 pitches are definitely well worth the effort. Aiding the bolt ladder instead of jumaring was much easier. The long rappel and hanging free in the air was also quite exciting. Great climb, thanks Jim!
Posted Jun 15, 2005 7:39 pm

jtschanzRoute Climbed: West Face Variation Date Climbed: June 11, 2005  Sucess!


After our failure last fall, it was great to finally stand on top of Monkey Face. The West Face Variation is an awesome route by itself, but even more fun when combined with the bolt ladder and the summit. Unless you're skilled at jumaring, it's definitely faster to have the second simply aid the bolt ladder also. I had been looking forward to the "Panic Point" pitch for almost a year - ever since the last attempt - and this time it was much easier and more enjoyable. This is a route I wouldn't mind doing again.
Posted Jun 13, 2005 11:45 am

cluckRoute Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: May 29, 2005  Sucess!


Wow - that's one of the toughest "easy" climbs I've ever done. At 5.7 A0, the rating suggests fairly straightforward climbing, but you really have to earn this one. The mix of trad, sport, and aid requires some well-thought-out strategy if you want to complete the route in reasonable time. Moving out of the mouth cave and onto the face was the hardest 5.7 climbing I've ever done. All technique went out the window and I had a death-grip on the holds.

All-in-all a spectacular climb that I can't wait to repeat!
Posted Jun 1, 2005 1:34 am

rpcMultiple Routes


Rising Expectations (Sept. 2007) Shirley led this as her first aid lead. Probably C1.
West Face ('gain in June 2007) this time with a 150 lbs pig for shits & giggles.
East Face (Apr. 2007) Rained all night prior. Drizzled all day. Then the wind picked up and started hosing us sideways. Bailed off after 1st pitch. Fun - a step up from West Face.
West Face (Mar. 2007) Rainy day (morning anyway) = aid climbing. Nice line for learning how to do it. P1 is mostly straightforward nutting. P2 & 3 bolt ladders can easily be run together to cave (some reachy bolts). P4 is another short bolt ladder.
Dolf's Dihedral (Mar. 2007) Direct 10a start avoids shit rock. Upper 5.8 crack is sweeeet though short.
Perpetual Motion (Mar. 2007) A decent 5.9 crack that pulls around some intimidating chockstones. Got up only to find the 3 anchor angles dangling from an ancient piece of tat.
Pioneer Route (Feb. 2003)
West Face Variation (first two pitches of the standard, route "13")
West Face (first pitch followed and later led, both times done as aid climbs)
West Face Variation (standard) to Bohn Street (Feb. 14, 2004)
West Face Variation "direct" to Bohn Street in two pitches (Apr. 17, 2004).
Pioneer Route (August 28, 2004). Took my little brother up this fun formation as the 3rd rock climb of his life (and 1st unbelayed rappel). Spinner bolt with tiny hole in the mouth cave has been replaced.
West Face Variation "direct" to Bohn Street in two pitches with variation (5.8) start on pitch 1. Shirley led the whole thing and we both thought the 5.8 variation start was kind of hard for the grade (March 6, 2005).
Posted Mar 7, 2005 1:18 pm

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