Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col

The approach to the start of the route requires ascent of the Snowpatch-Bugaboo Spires col which can involve the most danger of the day as you ascend the glacier crossing at least one crevasse and a bergshrund below other climbers scrambling through loose rock above (photos). That is why I always prefer the Pigeon-Snowpatch Spires col for descent when climbing the west face of Snowpatch Spire. This optional descent involves six single 60m rope raps. I advise ascending the Snowpatch-Bugaboo Spires col fast, which in my case means solo. If you are going to rope up for this section, please manage your rope carefully when you enter the loose rock area above. Snowpatch Spire, Buckingham, IV, 5.10, Bugaboo Provincial Park, BC, August, 2007