Son of Easy O is a great roof problem that is a great step up from Shockley’s Ceiling and a nice lead into more difficult roofs like Modern Times. The climbing is wonderfully varied on this route, too, featuring everything from jamming, balancy face moves, and a few strong roof moves. This route will keep you thinking form the start.
From the West Trapps (upper) Parking Lot: Walk ~5-7 minutes along the carriage road and pass the “Uber-toilet” (the compost toilet by the Uberfall), you are looking for a thin, s-shaped crack to the right of some large, detached blocks sitting immediately at the base of the wall. The start of Son of Easy O will be ~30-40 ft. from the spindly tree that marks the start of City Lights (5.8- and another Gunks classic)
From the Wawarsing (lower) Parking Lot: Ascend the Stairmaster to the East Trapps Trail Junction. You will actually have to turn BACK towards the Uberfall to access Son of Easy O. Continue back towards the Uber-toilet, looking for the same features described above. If you pass this landmark, you have gone too far.
Pitch 1: Start at the thin crack ~30-40 ft to the left of City Lights. Jam up through the pods and pull to the thin face above. Follow the face up and slightly left to a ledge to the left of the overhang and left-facing corner of pitch 2. You can belay off gear directly underneath the roof, move left (~12-15 ft.), or move way left (~30 ft.) out to the belay bolts over on Easy Overhang (overkill…). Pitch 1 and 2 can also be combined if you have enough gear. (5.8, ~90 ft.)
Pitch 2: Regardless from where you belay, aim for the left-facing corner system and roof. Get into the corner to move upward and a bit right to turn the roof (Hint: be aware that your terrain is a corner…). After the roof, easier terrain will lead you to the top of the cliff. (5.8, ~75 ft.)
Descent: You have 3 options:
- Walk left and use the rappel line over Baby
- Walk right and use the rappel line over City Lights
- Huff it back to the Uberfall and scramble/down-climb back to
the carriage road.
- 60m rope (doubles, if you so desire)
- BD nuts, sizes 4-13, or equivalent
- Cams from ~size 1 C3 to #3 C4, add small TCUs, if necessary
- 6-8 shoulder-length runners, 2 double-length runners
- Anchor cord, extra ‘biners, personal anchor system, etc.