South By Southwest

Overview

The harder of the two classic routes up Lower Cathedral Spire that travels left from the shared ledge at the top of pitch 2 for both climbs. The Regular Route (5.9) goes right.

Getting There

From the Cathedral Boulders, hike and scramble up the gully to the east of the rock formation (see Lower Cathedral Spire page). The route starts on the southeast corner at the base of a large 4th class crack that used to have a large log in it.

Route Description

If climbed with a 60-meter rope:

Pitch 1: 5.6

Pitch 2/3: 5.6 to the left side of the large 3rd class series of ledges

Pitch 4: 5.9 to 5.10d

Pitch 5: 5.10a hands to 5.11a lieback/hands then 5.8 hands

Pitch 6: 5.6 to 4th class to top out

If climbed with a 70-meter rope:

Pitch 1: 5.6

Pitch 2: 5.6 to left side of the large series of 3rd class ledges

Pitch 3: 5.9 to 5.10d, then 5.10a hands and 5.11a lieback/hands to a moderate ledge after the crux

Pitch 4: 5.8 hands to 5.6, then 4th class at the top 

South By Southwest Topo

Essential Gear

1 set of nuts; peenuts are helpful

2 sets of cams 0.5-2"; 3" optional

Long slings to connect pitches if desired.