South Early Winters Spire Climber's Log
|
|
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|
| rpc | 3 routes | |
| Route Climbed: SW Rib. Date Climbed: 9/9/07 An OK route. As Martin mentions, ledgy with good climbing consisting of "short bursts" here and there. Also, Martin's suggestion of linking works well - did it in about 5 pitches (could've cut down one more I think). Nice day & hence 2 parties ahead of us (& more on descent). Route Climbed: DEB. Date Climbed: 9/30/06 Shirley & I wanted to do LC but couldn't quite crawl out of sleeping bags pre-dawn (again). Nice line. Did it at about 5.9 A0 (yarded bolt ladders). Nice cracks on lower 4 pitches. Nice exposure & OK climbing on upper part (probably nicer if you free the bolt ladders). As always, transitioning from aid to free mid-pitch is a bitch. Cold when in shade. I liked East Face of Lex and even East FAce of Minuteman better than this one. Route Climbed: South Arete. Date Climbed: 10/12/02 My wife, our friend J. and I did the climb together. Perfect weather on this sunny side of the mountain. Very easy rock - the only interesting part was at the very beginning and even that was not harder than 5.5. Ran into only one more climber (soloing) from Methow. Saw a party rapping off the Liberty Bell. | |
| Posted Oct 2, 2006 9:04 pm | ||
| osatrik | South Arete  | |
| Probably the most fun multi-pitch rock route I've done. My OSAT rock-jock buddies took me up this, and let me lead the slab crossing on the descent. | |
| Posted Aug 25, 2006 6:33 am | ||
| emilie | South Arete Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2006 | |
| My first time in the Eastern Cascades and first time alpine rock climbing. Will be back for more! | |
| Posted Jul 31, 2006 5:53 pm | ||
| Norman | SEWS Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2006 | |
| My son and I returned this year to complete the Fall attempt last year. We had excellent weather. No one else climbing the South Arete this day. | |
| Posted Jul 31, 2006 3:32 am | ||
| missadventure | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: july 9 2001 | |
| what a sweet climb! | |
| Posted Feb 10, 2006 12:26 am | ||
| danman3156 | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: August 12 2004 | |
| Fun route, not too hard but it was perfect for my technical alpine climb. | |
| Posted Jan 18, 2006 9:03 pm | ||
| setrent | Route Climbed: Southwest Rib Date Climbed: 16 Aug, 2004 | |
| A great climb in Washington Pass. Needed the two #4 Camalots. Would make the direct start next time. | ||
| Posted Dec 26, 2005 10:07 pm | ||
| Norman | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: 10/1/05 | |
| Hoping to get in a Fall climb, but only started the route. Snow, some ice made us back off. Rock was very cold and our hands got numb quickly. Hope to do the whole route in better weather. There was no one else around. Beautiful place. | |
| Posted Oct 2, 2005 8:19 pm | ||
| rcook1 | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: July 2005 | |
| excellent 360 degree views at the top, mountain goats fought over my urine | ||
| Posted Jul 19, 2005 7:45 pm | ||
| lidijagrazulis | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: July 10, 2005 | |
| My first climb in the North Cascades! Great sticky rock, fun moves (especially the traverse on the whaleback), and gorgeous scenery added up to a great day. We got to the summit just before it started sprinkling, but then dried up 'til just before we got back to our cars. 5-star climb! | |
| Posted Jul 11, 2005 11:43 am | ||
| willow | Route Climbed: Southwest Buttress Date Climbed: 11 June 2005 | |
| Very fun route. A bit cold - climbed through the clouds with wet snow falling and then hail, but it gave the experience a nice mountain ambiance. Recommend it! | |
| Posted Jun 13, 2005 1:16 pm | ||
| Blakester | Route Climbed: Southwest Buttress Date Climbed: May 28 2005 | |
| Warm and beautiful weather. Bring a couple big cams for the offwidths. Start just to the left of the two-topped Larch. | |
| Posted May 31, 2005 3:27 am | ||
| esugi | Route Climbed: SW Couloir Date Climbed: 4/25/05 | |
| Climbed with Gunner below. Second time on this route this year. Made for great outing (except for post holing) with short approach and fun route. Had the entire route to ourselves. | |
| Posted Apr 29, 2005 1:37 am | ||
| gunnersmith | Route Climbed: SW Couloir Date Climbed: 4/25/05 | |
| We desperately needed snowshoes, as we punched through hip deep most of the way to the route. Once there, the route was quite nice. Crampons were necessary. There was plenty of snow in the couloir, but is is melting fast. Be careful of the cornice once you exit the couloir and begin the scramble. I loved this climb. | |
| Posted Apr 26, 2005 10:28 pm | ||
| Norman | Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: 4/23/05 | |
| Great climb! We left Blue Lake Trailhead 8:00AM, summit by noon. Warm and sunny, with fantastic views. Only one other group ahead of us, so no line ups in the Couloir. Snow was soft and deep enough for us to use snowshoes on the approach. Couloir had snow almost to the summit , but melting fast. Some of us used crampons in the Couloir, optional on this day. Thanks to Summitpost for good beta on this route. | |
| Posted Apr 25, 2005 12:22 am | ||
| Dan Winter | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: 6/15/02 | |
| I loved this climb. Approached via the hairpin turn parking area. Saw lots of goats that tried to kick rocks down on us! Glissaded back down almost all the way to the car. | |
| Posted Mar 25, 2005 2:42 am | ||
| esugi | Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: March 13, 2005 | |
| Started from the trailhead at 6:15am. Very cold early but quickly warmed up. Reached the summit in total of 4 hours. Not much snow in the couloir due to low snow year. Few places of hard ice. Used pickets, screws, nuts, 2nd tool. Route will not be "in" very long this season so go out and do it now!! | |
| Posted Mar 14, 2005 1:03 am | ||
| Chinese Rock | Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: May 31, 2004 | |
| I climbed this fun route with Tom Fralich (see his post below). | |
| Posted Feb 24, 2005 3:21 am | ||
| cluck | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: September 4, 2004 | |
| After claiming a campsite in a nearby campground, we began the mercifully short approach to SEWS around 2:00 PM. By 3:30, we were started up the first pitch of the South Arete. The climb consisted of an enjoyable mix of short low-5th class climbing sections separated by 3rd and 4th class scrambling. The highlight of the climb was a short but clean sequence of chimney moves on pitch 2. The clouds constantly threatened us with showers but never fully delivered and by 5:30 we were taking summit photos. The descent was mostly down climbing with the occasional seated hip belay for sketchy portions. We rapped the chimney and also the section back to the bottom of the route. We were off the route by 6:30 and in parking lot for victory beers by 7:45. | |
| Posted Sep 7, 2004 4:00 pm | ||
| Derek Franzen | Route Climbed: S Arete & SW Couloir Date Climbed: July 16 1983 & Multiple times before & after | |
| With E Sandbo. Eric and I were planning on climbing the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire in August and decided we should climb all the Liberty Bell group spires in a day in order to practice climbing efficiency. We didn't keep count of the number of 5th class pitches but it must have been close to 20. We carried a 2nd rope, 9mm, for longer rappels and our standard climbing rack of stoppers and hexes. | |
| Posted Aug 21, 2004 2:19 pm | ||
|