South Early Winters Spire Climber's Log
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[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
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| jtschanz | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: July 4, 2004  | |
| After retreating from Black Peak due to low clouds (which later completely cleared up!), Haydar and I decided to climb SEWS as a consolation prize. This was a surprisingly fun route - great views all the way up. The downclimbing was kind of a pain but it went quickly. We were back at the car and driving down I5 in time to catch the fireworks for at least 20 different small towns. | |
| Posted Jul 8, 2004 12:04 pm | ||
| Martin Cash | Route Climbed: Southwest Buttress Date Climbed: June 19, 2004 | |
| Lee Davis and I climbed this really nice route on a beautiful Saturday afternoon. The approach went quickly since 90% of it is now snow free. We racked up at the larch tree, then waited an hour for a really slow party of the 5.8 widecrack pitch. This lady took over half an hour to move up 40 feet! I lead the first pitch which had a harder section about half way up. After cranking through the interesting 5.8 section, it eased until the belay. Technically I thought this was the hardest pitch, despite what the guidebook says. On the next lead I cranked throught the widecrack quickly finding it to be very easy. I combined pitches 2 & 3 with our 70 meter rope, only placing 2 pieces in 130 feet. Was feeling strong! Lee lead the 5.6+ slab pitch easily which was enjoyable. I blew up the bearhug finding it to be much easier than rated. Lee lead the easy slab pitch after that, then I got the summit pitch. We downclimbed the South Arete, before hiking back to the car, then enjoyed a nice dinner in Winthrop. | |
| Posted Jun 21, 2004 11:58 am | ||
| Tom Fralich | Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: May 31, 2004 | |
| Very fun climb with Felix Danila on Memorial Day - mostly simul-climbed. With bad weather hanging over the area, we were very happy to get this route in. Crux on the first pitch was nice and very well protected. Lots of fun scrambling the rest of the way to the summit. Snow cover all the way to the trailhead made it hard to find the right path and we got a bit lost in the beginning but no problems otherwise. We saw about 4 other parties on the route. | |
| Posted Jun 8, 2004 4:17 pm | ||
| sublimesalamander | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: May 14, 2004 | |
| Perfect day even though it was slightly overcast. Was a little disapointed I didn't see the killer Billy Goats I've heard so much about. | |
| Posted May 20, 2004 12:49 am | ||
| wildstar | Route Climbed: SW Couloir Date Climbed: April 29, 2004 | |
| Beautiful day in a beautiful area. Climbed with skook. | |
| Posted Apr 30, 2004 12:03 am | ||
| skook | Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: April 29, 2004 | |
| Perfect day, with perfect conditions. A nice route to try a solo climb. | |
| Posted Apr 29, 2004 11:48 pm | ||
| jasonconnell | Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: April 24, 2004 | |
| Sweet climb with great weather. The "5.3" scramble up top is really class 4 at best. We did encounter short sections of snow/ice in the 50+ degree neighborhood. Ski down was great on slushy corn. | |
| Posted Apr 26, 2004 5:17 pm | ||
| skook | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: June 8th 2003 | |
| Jon and I had some good experience building on this climb. Keep on moving. | |
| Posted Apr 12, 2004 9:39 pm | ||
| wildstar | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: June 8th 2003 | |
| Climbed with Marcus. Great views. It was fun to be back in the mountains again after some time off. | |
| Posted Jan 3, 2004 6:03 pm | ||
| Moni | Route Climbed: SW Couloir/S arrete Date Climbed: Oct 7, 1979 & Sept 3, 1995 | |
| 1979 with Fred; 1995 with Fred and Tanya. SW Couloir as a snow climb. June 22, 2011. With Fred | |
| Posted Nov 15, 2003 8:55 am | ||
| linxweiler | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: September 20, 2003 | |
| Couldn't have asked for a better day climbing. We were the first party to head out of Blue Lake, and didn't see another party until we returned to the base of the climb. | |
| Posted Oct 23, 2003 3:40 pm | ||
| MtnMishell | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: August 10, 2003 | |
| Martin and I climbed the South Arete route after camping at Blue Lake. This was my first multipitch alpine rock experience, and we had a great time. I really liked the views of the North Cascades from the top. We met lots of nice people along the route and at the summit. | |
| Posted Sep 19, 2003 2:10 pm | ||
| sprosseda | south arete and buttress variation Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2001 | |
| Climbed the south arete a few times, south couloir, and a variation on the sw buttress. Fantastic, fun, multi pitch climbs that are exciting but not too intense. | |
| Posted Sep 9, 2003 11:31 am | ||
| jhalz | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: Sept. 1, 2003 | |
| First Alpine lead. Great weather. Other than the first and maybe second pitches, it's nothing more than a scramble. Be cautious of other parties above you on the descent kicking down rocks, it's a funnel. | |
| Posted Sep 5, 2003 9:58 am | ||
| Martin Cash | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: August 10, 2003 | |
| Mishell and I climbed the South Arete route with 8 other parties that day. The first pitch was great, a fun lead. The second pitch had some fun climbing around a chockstone. The rest of the route is class 2 -4 and was not enjoyble at all. The route is just loaded with vegetation everywhere. The descent was even worse. Downclimbing through all of this was awful. Should have rapped the Couloir instead. Probably the worst route in the Liberty Group. | |
| Posted Aug 11, 2003 7:56 am | ||
| leejams | Route Climbed: south arete Date Climbed: July,26 2003 | |
| After climbing the SW snow couloir a couple months ago vowed to return for the rock climbing. Up here for the weekend and picked this rte as the Beckey guide suggested it as a great intro to this area's rock. Of course he is right and great rock, area, and intro to fantastic place to play. | |
| Posted Jul 28, 2003 12:05 am | ||
| Martin Cash | Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: May 11, 2003 | |
| Fred Spicker and I climbed the Southwest Couloir in perfect conditions, under clear blue skies. The route had lots of consolidated snow in it, and steps kicked all the way up. Could be done with trekking poles and no crampons if needed. Was a nice easy 45 to 50 degree snow climb. We stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes, admiring the amazing views. On the way down, we encountered a group of 7 beginners putting in a running belay. We were bored, so we went over and climbed Blue Lake Peak. | |
| Posted May 11, 2003 9:29 pm | ||
| scot'teryx | Route Climbed: SW Couloir Date Climbed: April 19, 2003 | |
| Fun and easy climb, got over too quickly Should have brought rock gear to climb the s arete The ski down sucked, breakable crust that provided more than enough face plants | |
| Posted May 6, 2003 4:36 pm | ||
| leejams | Route Climbed: SW couloir Date Climbed: April 26, 2003 | |
| An awesome sun drenched day. Climbing with Tom breit we got an early start and on the summit by around noon. Saw only one other party of 2 ahead of us. Conditions lower down were just steep, crusty, avalanche consolidation. Higher up in the crux slot there was more of a melt-freeze cycle going on and a bit harder ice. Views on top were hard to beat. | |
| Posted Apr 28, 2003 9:56 pm | ||
| robertdurham | Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: July 30 2002 | |
| Climbed with Stephen Durham and Mark Ryman. Fun climbing, great views. | ||
| Posted Aug 8, 2002 4:01 pm | ||
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