Approached from Lake O'Hara along spectaular Grassi Trail. Crotch-high snow covering upper 2/3 of the brutal upper scree slope that ends at the hut. Weather got bad: avalanches coming off Lefroy & Victoria. Route also out of condition: a foot of new snow on the slabs that are the initial 800 feet of the SE Ridge. Unsafe -- so coiled the ropes & ascended the loft in the Abbott Pass Hut. Literally slept on the Continental Divide.
Even so, an incredible & memorable trip & well worth the effort.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe