With Garrett. Did the original/direct start and found this to be very hard; tried the crux several times, then aided it, and it felt like 6a (5.10a) *with* pulling on gear. In contrast, the "6a" pitches afterwards felt much, much easier (took me 50 min to lead the first pitch, about 8 minutes to lead the 2nd "crux" pitch).
Also for the direct start, this topo suggested you go straight up to the little pillar just below the crux. I looked at this, and it's doable, and you could take a small traverse left just below the pillar where it looked like you'd get gear. But turns out you can't get gear there; much better to go about 15 feet left, go up, and then traverse right to the pillar.
For the upper route, I made a little topo that shows how we did the upper section. There's a fantastic large crack/dihedral on basically the last pitch.
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."