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South Face route to S summit

South Face route to S summit

South Face route to S summit

Page Type: Route

Location: Bolivia, South America

Object Title: South Face route to S summit

Route Type: glacier climb

Time Required: A few days

Difficulty: PD

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: tatraman

Created/Edited: Apr 20, 2005 / Sep 29, 2005

Object ID: 164694

Hits: 3011 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach from the Sajama village heading west, rent a 4x4 or a donkey (1,5 hours by 4x4, 8hours by fet with donkey) to reach the base camp at 4700m. from here, the volcanic ashes get too deep for the car to preoceed. walking is also harder. from the basecamp, head towards the Col between Parinacota and POmerape to reach high camp at 5200m.

Route Description

From the col, you can climb the south face broad culoir (snow covered with no or little crevases and not too steep - up to 40 degrees) until 4/5 of the rocky ridge on the left. cross the ridge and you will get to another culoir. this one is steeper, glaciated with crevasses and seracs in the upper part. The inclination gets up to 55 degrees. narrow culoir on the righthand side will lead yout onto the S (or perhaps SE) summit which is 50 m. lower than main summit. descent via the same route. We did this with ski mountaineering equipment and skied down in september 2004, see http://skicordillera.laviny.cz , click on the GB flag and click on diary to read expedition diary.

Essential Gear

snowstacks (snow anchors), rope, 2 icetools at least for the leading climber, crampons, harness... lot of water as the snow in the lower parts of volcano is mixed up with volcanic ashes...

sunscreen a must!

Miscellaneous Info

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Additions and Corrections

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tatramanRoute Comment


Hasn't voted

Take into consideration, that south faces are the ones that get less sun in the southern hemispere.Hence they are colder. The coldest face of a mountain to be at early in the morning is probably SW face in this part of the world
Posted Apr 20, 2005 8:11 am

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Parinacota seen from the...on the top with parinacota in...more skiing downskiing down the icy slopesbeginn of steeper section 100...heading towards the glacierour ascent route via south face
renting a 4x4 enables you to...S face route map