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South Face, Stanley-Burgner

 
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South Face, Stanley-Burgner
Leading the sixth and crux pitch of Stanley-Burgner route (III 5.9+) on south face of Prusik. I think the climbing looks more aesthetic than it actually is (grunt). Photo taken June 25, 2006.

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Martin CashNice!

Martin Cash

Voted 10/10

Looks like a sweet pitch! Nice job on the climb Radek and Shirley. Great beta and pics.
Posted Jun 27, 2006 4:34 pm

rpcRe: Nice!

rpc

Hasn't voted

Thank you very much Martin.
Maybe I'm too old and jaded, but I did not find this route as "classic" as some suggest. This corner was not that fun either - ledgy, weird cracks (from none to huge OW's) and I ran out of gear. The best pich IMHO was pitch 1 (5.8 wide crack) and the 5.9 flaring squeeze chimney (fun, fun, fun!! in the Aries kinda way :)

did you manage to get out last weekend?
Posted Jun 27, 2006 5:49 pm

Martin CashRe: Nice!

Martin Cash

Voted 10/10

Interesting. Enjoying your pics. How was the hike? Lots of windfall still?

A good friend of ours got married in Spokane this weekend so we went there. Looking forward to enjoying this nice weather in the mountains over the long weekend.
Posted Jun 27, 2006 6:30 pm

rpcRe: Nice!

rpc

Hasn't voted

Thanks man. Hike was OK (in/out via Snow Lks.) - glad I don't have to do it again for a long while :)

Not much downed trees at all actually. Small patches of snow above Snow Lakes (going fast). Plenty of dry slabs to choose from at Lk. Viviane for camping. Given last wknd's temps, ax/crampons were a waste (postholing on n. side on the descent).
Posted Jun 27, 2006 6:42 pm

jlagnice work

Hasn't voted

nice job Radek, good route with great weather. Keep it up and call me anytime your in the area.
Posted Jun 27, 2006 7:11 pm

rpcRe: nice work

rpc

Hasn't voted

Thank you Josh - appreciate the good word. Would be cool to get together for some cragging at Smith come fall. Let me know if you're ever up here in PDX area.
Posted Jun 28, 2006 12:26 am

jtschanzYou are old and jaded!

jtschanz

Voted 10/10

Either that, or you climb in Utah too much. Haydar has the same disease. The pitch looks cool to me :)
Posted Jun 27, 2006 11:22 pm

rpcRe: You are old and jaded!

rpc

Hasn't voted

Thanks Jim :)
It LOOKS cool till you get on it IMHO. It goes something like: no crack to OW to bulge with finger cracks to no crack stem to OW to thin hands.
Posted Jun 28, 2006 12:28 am

HandjamMasterCGreat looking peak

HandjamMasterC

Voted 10/10

What a great looking peak and cool climb. Thanks for posting this Radek.
Posted Jun 27, 2006 11:56 pm

rpcRe: Great looking peak

rpc

Hasn't voted

Thank you for stopping by and the kind word Craig. High quality granite on this one in a beautiful alpine setting - think you'd like it (not sure if there are any A3+ lines on it though :)
Posted Jun 28, 2006 12:29 am

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Image Data
rpcSubmitted by rpc
on Jun 27, 2006 4:15 pm

Image ID: 203217
Hits: 2171 
Lat/Lon: 32.84000°N / 113.91°W
Object Title: South Face, Stanley-Burgner

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing