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South Face

South Face


Page Type: Route

Location: France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.91660°N / 6.96170°E

Object Title: South Face

Route Type: Rock to grade III

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: PD-

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: Orphanage

Created/Edited: Jul 31, 2002 / Jul 27, 2004

Object ID: 156746

Hits: 2628 

Page Score: 71.56%  - 2 Votes 

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The base of the climb is a couloir in the centre of the South face, rising out of the Moine glacier. This is reached in 30 minutes from the Couvercle hut, or in two and a half hours from Montenvers.

Route Description

Slim on description for the moment - sorry! Guidebook description to follow.
The route can be difficult to find, so make sure you take a guidebook or notes with you. The climb is described in detail in the second volume of the Mont Blanc Massif guidebook. 3.5 hours up, descent by the same route; similar time needed.
The view from the top is stunning! a 360 degree panorama from the aiguilles rouges, clockwise to the drus, aiguille verte, droites, courtes, grandes jorasses, dent du géant, mont blanc, aiguille du midi, plan and requin and the mer de glace. Certainly one of the best vistas in the Alps.
If you head directly upwards as much as possible, you will leave the prescribed route fairly rapidly, and find much more interesting (and less polished) stuff, with a grade IV+ jamming crack (my nuckles are still scabbed..!), but as I say, guidebook description to follow soon.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and crampons essential for the approach.
Single 60m rope or twin 45m ropes (useful in descent), assortment of slings, mixed rack of rocks / jamming devices, and it might be useful to carry some abseil tat too. Plenty of natural protection; fantastic rock.
You will need a helmet - medium-high risk of stonefall from parties above you.

Miscellaneous Info

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Voted 7/10

AD-,tricky route finding,pitches III+,abseils on descent,3.5 hours to the top is very,very fast time.4.5 hours at least.
Posted Jul 25, 2010 9:07 am

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