Welcome to SP!  -
South Face

South Face

South Face

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 45.54390°N / 122.25°W

Object Title: South Face

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb (Trad)

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 5.4

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: peakbagger4

Created/Edited: Sep 14, 2003 / Sep 14, 2003

Object ID: 158794

Hits: 4175 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote



Once parked work toward I-84 following paths to the south. There are a few that lead to the edge of the freeway so pick one based on where you park and head south/southwest until you hit the freeway. If you bear too much west you may find that there is water between you and your destination so bear more south than west. Once alongside the freeway approximately 1/8 mile from where you gained the roadside start looking for a trail that travels north into the woods. Follow this trail to the base of Rooster Rock. The start of the route is on the south side of Rooster Rock.

Route Description

Pitch 1:

Either scramble up easy 4th class or belay due to exposure to ledge up and right (east) of start of climb. Ledge has bolted belay. Ledge can be seen from below.

Pitch 2:

Head up and right (east) along obvious gully to ridge (5.4). Travel west along ridge to summit. Solid bolts & rap chains on summit.

Essential Gear

2 60 meter ropes
Set of nuts
Set hexs
Light set cams (small to Med)
8 - 10 Slings

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-4 of 4    
cluckRoute Comment


Hasn't voted

Actually, you don't need dual 60 meter ropes to rap off. Two 50 meter ropes reach the ground just fine.

Or, you can rap to the bolt at the top of pitch #1 with one 60 meter rope and rap a second time to the ground.

I've even rapped with one 50 meter rope and had to disconnect from rappel to scramble over to the belay bolt unroped.
Posted Sep 28, 2003 4:25 pm
peakbagger4Route Comment

Hasn't voted

Cluck is right that you can do all the above with a little swinging, unroped exposed scrambilng, etc. However, to safely reach the trail below without any hassels I still suggest 2 60 Meter ropes if available. Belay #1 and the rap anchors are not inline with each other.
Posted Sep 30, 2003 4:01 am
cluckRoute Comment


Hasn't voted

Yeah, trying to incorporate the belay bolt in 2 rappels is tricky. But you don't need 2 60's to reach the trail safely in one rap. Two 50 meter ropes will also reach the trail safely in one rappel from the chains on top.
Posted Oct 1, 2003 12:45 pm
Brian JenkinsRoute Comment

Brian Jenkins

Hasn't voted

Don't take the first trail north from the highway you come to that goes up the small ridge to the East Face. Instead, walk along the highway past the "Portland 22 miles" sign and go the the small "Adopt A Highway Program" sign. At that point, find the trail that heads right (north) down into a small brambly and swampy area. This trail will take you to the South Face climb.
Posted Apr 12, 2004 12:16 am

Viewing: 1-4 of 4    


Ridge completion to 2nd pitch2nd PitchRoute starts behind tree....