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South - Normal route
Route

South - Normal route

 
South - Normal route

Page Type: Route

Location: Sondrio, Italy, Europe

Object Title: South - Normal route

Season: Summer

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: PD+

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Corvus

Created/Edited: Oct 4, 2011 / Oct 8, 2011

Object ID: 751152

Hits: 2374 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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Overview


 
William Auguste Cooldige
 

The first ascent of Piz Badile was by W. A. B. Coolidge with guides F. and H. Dévouassoud on 27 July 1867 by the south ridge (nowdays known as normal route).

Approach


From Gianetti hut, follow the North direction pointing to the base of the spur that descends from the South ridge of Piz Badile (about 45 min).
 
Starting point
 

Route Description


 
Pizzo Badile normal route
 

 
Key-passage
 

Climb the wall on the West side of the mountain for about 100 meters, moving first to the right and then left, following a short part of the South ridge. For ledges, is skewed to the right reaching the ridge and then follow it back spur the left. Passed a cliff, go up a chimney on the left (15 m III+) coming out at a metal cross dedicated to mountaineers Castelli and Piatti.
Streams and grassy ledges to climb to about 80 m along the trail until they reach the beginning of a clear ledge, with a few meters downhill to the right, to the base of a marked channel. Go up the channel to 60 m and exit left following a groove that leads to the edge of the South ridge. Follow the ridge for a few 10 meters and then cross to the right, entering the main canyon and up to about 70-80 m. Leave a small chimney using the left and then right back, climb up a series of easier grooves and plaques that lead to the ledge that leads to the terminal summit block (careful unstable stones).


Essential Gear


Helmet and a 50 m rope.
The route is equipped with good spits. There is only one belay not so well positioned (watch the video)



Images