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South Pillar
Route

South Pillar

 
South Pillar

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.45400°N / 119.536°W

Object Title: South Pillar

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.8

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Dave Daly

Created/Edited: Jul 24, 2002 / Sep 17, 2002

Object ID: 156724

Hits: 3499 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Approach


Follow the trail for all south facing routes. Once at the base, follow the trail west for approximately 500 yards. The trail will drop down through a small spread of talus and next to a steep pillar featured with huecos and chickenheads. The route begins midway down the slope and climbs up past 4 bolts ("soft" 5.9 moves past the first two bolts). This initial pitch continues for an entire 60 meters to a natural belay (pick a couple of chickenheads!). Continue the second pitch by following (religiously) close to the right edge of the pillar, slinging chickenheads and/or girth hitching pockets along the way (nice, wild exposure!). Nothing harder than 5.7. This pitch should end at a notch at the end of the pillar. Set up for the next pitch and move the belay a short distance across the notch. Start the next pitch up a small corner/crack system (pro to 1") that eventually peters out and moves out onto more face climbing. Again, stay to the right as much as possible. The third pitch (5.6) will end short of a steep wall on the right (belay on chickenheads). Start up the wall's right side and climb the "jugs" provided (pro to 1/2"). This last pitch is short but provides more wild exposure on comfortable terrain (5.7). Belay at the summit block (2 bolts, one stamped ASCA....next to two beefy cracks??). Upon finishing, traverse around the left side of the summit block (exposed 4th class). Descend using Fresno Dome's summit trail.

Route Description


See the approach (under construction!)

Essential Gear


Slings! Slings! Slings! Carry a few nuts and cams for the 3rd and 4th pitch (pro up to 1"). Don't forget the draws for the first 4 bolts.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and Corrections

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MishaRoute Comment

Misha

Hasn't voted

Few minor additions/changes:


- First pitch only features three bolts. Fourth bolt is located on the 2nd pitch, in the natural "hole" about 10' to the left of the pillar, 15-20' above the belay station.


- You can use gear for up to 3" to protect the 1st pitch.


Posted Oct 12, 2004 11:56 am

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Images

Etsuko on the incredibly...Yours truly leading the way...south pillar Fresno Dome3 finger hand hold