The route approach to this fun technical rock route is on the main page. This route is popular and can be crowded. Get to the climb early or try mid-week to avoid these crowds. Follow the trail to Ingalls Lake and pick the best route up the class 2 and 3 slabs and talus to the left. Look for the cleft between Ingalls North and South Peaks which marks the beginning of the South Ridge Climbs. Make a few class 4 moves up the gully to a ledge which begins the class 5 climbing.
The route resembles more of a face than a ridge from this perspective. The first pitch consist of a low class 5 scramble up the obvious crack in the middle of the slab. Climb this to the first ledge and then on to a second ledge. Be very careful on the second ledge as there are several very large and loose boulders waiting to fall out onto the approach route.
The second pitch has several variations. The easiest and most popular is the crack on the far left which consist of well protected 5.4 climbing. The middle crack, which I highly recommend,around 5.6 according to the Fred Beckey or Jeff Smoot guides, good protection and very clean. From the second belay you will see bolted slings at the top of the second pitch in the center of the face, this is your third belay.
From here pick the most appealing line to the top which is marked by three bolts on top of a ledge. This marks the end of the technical rock but one must make a short scramble north to the true summit.
The loose west face can be down climbed to a point where you can traverse back to the east and the beginning of the South Ridge climb. I recommend that one rappel the climbing route back to the beginning of the climb. The rappel can be done in four raps (with a 60M rope), starting from the three bolt anchor at the top of the climb
Small rack to 2". Stoppers worked great. Slings are recommended as the route tends to zigzag. A 60M rope is also recommended. Bring webbing as the rap anchors may need replacing at times.
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