From Zermat head up to the Rothorn Hut.
Check out the approach section of the Zinalrothorn south east ridge for complete directions.
From the Rothorn hut follow the well worn normal rout up glacier until you are just short of the rock wall.
Instead of turning South West follow along this line until you see the snow filled couloir that heads up to the Triftjoch.
Keeping to the rocks on the right side of the couloir head towards the top. From the col follow the ridge crest up to the top except for a steep step at about half way.
This can be surmounted by a chimney on the Mountete. It is easy going after this until the summit is reached.
This was the route use by the first assent party.
Basic gear for glacialer travel,
alpine axe, crampons, rope, slings, harness, biners, helmet etc
Small rack of small hexes, cams or nuts maybe 5 in total.
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