OverviewAn interesting alternative to the route described by J. Gordon Edwards in Climber's Guide to Glacier National Park. This route ascends the ridge climber's left (West) of the creek gorge.
Getting ThereStart by traveling on the Iceberg Lake trail. Once the trail starts traversing a mild slope to the west with Henkel on the right, climber trails start in two locations leading up the meadow on the east side of the creek running down from Henkel. If you've crossed the creek on the main trail, you've missed the climber trails.
Route DescriptionFollow the climber trail up the meadow through a sparsely wooded growth. Continue up the meadow until you reach a snowbank usually present on the creek below the cliff bands. Cross the creek in a convenient place and start following the path of least resistance up the ridge on the left (facing up) side of the creek. At first, the ridge consists of steep meadows, scree patches, and class 3 cliff bands. Continue scrambling up the ridge until you see a large dark pyramid in front of you on the ridge. It is probably closer to class 4 if ascended directly, but a class 3 way up can be found ascending it diagonally to the left (west).
Once on top of the pyramid, there is a steep face with loose scree and cliff patches. It is possible to ascend it directly, but extremely unpleasant and physically taxing due to the loose nature of the terrain. It is better to traverse right (east) past the ridge crest onto the SE face. It is a pleasant class 2/3 scramble to gain the upper ridge. Once on the upper ridge, follow its gentle slope to the summit.