Monopole - Apr 4, 2011 11:43 pm Date Climbed: Mar 18, 2010
Blue skies
Fabulous conditions! The weather turned perfect just in time for the climb.
LadyWawa - Feb 6, 2011 7:52 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2010
Not enough snow
I got up to where the Pearly Gates are but there was not enough snow or ice to climb- just crumbling rock. We were the only group on the mountain that day and maybe we should have taken the hint. Perfect weather but perfectly un-climbable near the top. :( I will be trying again the next time I'm in Oregon.
My first climb of Mt. Hood was with Mountaineering Explorer Post 999 of Corvallis, OR. That was in July 1971, while in high school. Have been up the south side a half dozen times, as well up the Castle Crags, Leuthold Couloir and Sandy Headwall routes. All were done 'Back in the Day'.
mthomas - Sep 19, 2010 12:28 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2004
Gingerbread castle
Solo climb in 9 hours roundtrip after frustrating attempt with RMI on Rainier. Winter wonderland! It had snowed some the last come of days and the entire top of the mountain was plastered with hoar. A true gingerbread castle and some of the most gorgeous mountain sceneries I've experienced.
Had to climb around the 'schrund first, then traverse into the Pearly Gates Couloir since the moat was too big and deep to jump safely.
We successfully made it but this isn't anything I would recommend to climb under dry conditions. Kinda dangerous really. But it made for an exciting climb.
This was the standard route for many years. I took a look at it this year, and that steep water ice was a no go. It used to be so mellow, I even snowboarded it with some freshiez...
This is the route I take first-timers up. Climbed it many times and still enjoy it; a nice way to spend a morning. I've climbed it a few times on a weeknight and went to work the next morning...I'm worthless at work that day, but it's cool to show people photos of that morning's sunset from the top of the state just a few hours after it happened.
Redwic - Jun 15, 2008 4:07 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2008
Here We Go Again!!!
Less than two months after my first trip on Mount Hood, I went back solo on June 15 to give my dad a special "Fathers Day" message from the summit. The weather conditions were spectacular. I went up the "Old Chute" and down the original standard "Hogsback" route... I recommend using the "Old Chute" route until/unless the "Hogsback" ridge moves east again (like it was a few years ago) so the traverse would be much less technical.
Rob Ricks - May 21, 2008 5:04 pm Date Climbed: Apr 23, 2004
First Summit
Went with Timberline Mountain Guides on my first trip up Hood. Unusually good weather for climbing in April. Not a lot of people on the mountain, but they all populated the Hogsback at the same time so there was a nice little gathering of rope teams all trying to get to the Pearly Gates. Snow Bridge well intact. Minor ice and rockfall at the gates. Made the crowded summit at 7:30 a.m. Descent went well until midmorning when we began postholing. Back in time for lunch. Beautiful day all the way around.
pearly gates looked like trouble waiting to happen (rockfall) so we headed west from the hog and summitted via the old chute....beautiful day....alone on top (seriously)
Hotfeet - May 26, 2007 5:56 pm Date Climbed: May 25, 2007
Great Sunrise
We had a fantastic sunrise. A great way to start the day! We then decended to avoid the traffic jams on the Mountain.
Krylon - Nov 27, 2006 11:50 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2004
Hood
One of two times that I've bonked on a mountain. Important tip: cereal is not a wise packing-night dinner. However, after a Subway sandwitch and two hours of sack time I was back to 100% and climbed strong.
osatrik - Sep 2, 2006 6:32 am Date Climbed: Feb 10, 1996
3rd Time - might as well be winter
OSAT group spent the night at the top of the Palmer, and completed a successful winter ascent the next morning.
This was a weekend of some giant floods in Oregon and Washington, and we had I-5 to ourselves as it was blocked by water near Chehalis and by a landslide along the Columbia.
fritzd - Jul 2, 2006 6:09 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2006
First Blood
We, my oldest brother and I, started from Timberline Lodge at 12:00 am. We reached the summit around 6:00 am. The climb up to and through the pearly gates was great, my first real technical snow climb.
While belaying my brother from the bergshrund I got hit by a rock on my cheak. I didn't see or hear it comming and it was about the size of my fist. Luckly all I got was a bloody cheak.
We followed some crazy russians, since this type of climbing is fairly new to my brother and I.
Monopole - Apr 4, 2011 11:43 pm Date Climbed: Mar 18, 2010
Blue skiesFabulous conditions! The weather turned perfect just in time for the climb.
LadyWawa - Feb 6, 2011 7:52 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2010
Not enough snowI got up to where the Pearly Gates are but there was not enough snow or ice to climb- just crumbling rock. We were the only group on the mountain that day and maybe we should have taken the hint. Perfect weather but perfectly un-climbable near the top. :( I will be trying again the next time I'm in Oregon.
RetroGear - Jan 9, 2011 11:43 pm
South Side & OthersMy first climb of Mt. Hood was with Mountaineering Explorer Post 999 of Corvallis, OR. That was in July 1971, while in high school. Have been up the south side a half dozen times, as well up the Castle Crags, Leuthold Couloir and Sandy Headwall routes. All were done 'Back in the Day'.
mthomas - Sep 19, 2010 12:28 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2004
Gingerbread castleSolo climb in 9 hours roundtrip after frustrating attempt with RMI on Rainier. Winter wonderland! It had snowed some the last come of days and the entire top of the mountain was plastered with hoar. A true gingerbread castle and some of the most gorgeous mountain sceneries I've experienced.
nealmueller - Apr 15, 2016 9:55 am
Re: Gingerbread castleCongrats on your summit. Do we need snowshoes for Hood in May?
SKI - Dec 30, 2009 9:35 pm Date Climbed: Apr 6, 2009
Icy as hell!Nice, easy route. Very icy the whole way though.
Kiefer - Jul 28, 2009 7:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2009
Dry conditionsHad to climb around the 'schrund first, then traverse into the Pearly Gates Couloir since the moat was too big and deep to jump safely.
We successfully made it but this isn't anything I would recommend to climb under dry conditions. Kinda dangerous really. But it made for an exciting climb.
OJ Loenneker - Jul 25, 2009 4:17 am
The old standardThis was the standard route for many years. I took a look at it this year, and that steep water ice was a no go. It used to be so mellow, I even snowboarded it with some freshiez...
mdostby - Oct 27, 2008 10:47 pm
The HogsbackSolo climb. June 1999.
BCJ - Oct 4, 2008 3:17 pm
Many ascentsThis is the route I take first-timers up. Climbed it many times and still enjoy it; a nice way to spend a morning. I've climbed it a few times on a weeknight and went to work the next morning...I'm worthless at work that day, but it's cool to show people photos of that morning's sunset from the top of the state just a few hours after it happened.
Redwic - Jun 15, 2008 4:07 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2008
Here We Go Again!!!Less than two months after my first trip on Mount Hood, I went back solo on June 15 to give my dad a special "Fathers Day" message from the summit. The weather conditions were spectacular. I went up the "Old Chute" and down the original standard "Hogsback" route... I recommend using the "Old Chute" route until/unless the "Hogsback" ridge moves east again (like it was a few years ago) so the traverse would be much less technical.
Rob Ricks - May 21, 2008 5:04 pm Date Climbed: Apr 23, 2004
First SummitWent with Timberline Mountain Guides on my first trip up Hood. Unusually good weather for climbing in April. Not a lot of people on the mountain, but they all populated the Hogsback at the same time so there was a nice little gathering of rope teams all trying to get to the Pearly Gates. Snow Bridge well intact. Minor ice and rockfall at the gates. Made the crowded summit at 7:30 a.m. Descent went well until midmorning when we began postholing. Back in time for lunch. Beautiful day all the way around.
wyomtman - Apr 28, 2008 2:47 pm Date Climbed: Apr 26, 2008
Sun Shinegreat conditions, used the old chute to summit
JonW - Nov 2, 2007 8:11 am Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2007
Too LateMight have been too late in the summer. Pearly Gates was a mess. Move fast through Devil's Kitchen or you'll feel like vomiting.
jvarholak - Sep 11, 2007 1:06 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2006
hogsback to old chutepearly gates looked like trouble waiting to happen (rockfall) so we headed west from the hog and summitted via the old chute....beautiful day....alone on top (seriously)
Hotfeet - May 26, 2007 5:56 pm Date Climbed: May 25, 2007
Great SunriseWe had a fantastic sunrise. A great way to start the day! We then decended to avoid the traffic jams on the Mountain.
skunk ape - May 25, 2007 11:28 am
Foggyhad the top 2 myself.
Krylon - Nov 27, 2006 11:50 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2004
HoodOne of two times that I've bonked on a mountain. Important tip: cereal is not a wise packing-night dinner. However, after a Subway sandwitch and two hours of sack time I was back to 100% and climbed strong.
osatrik - Sep 2, 2006 6:32 am Date Climbed: Feb 10, 1996
3rd Time - might as well be winterOSAT group spent the night at the top of the Palmer, and completed a successful winter ascent the next morning.
This was a weekend of some giant floods in Oregon and Washington, and we had I-5 to ourselves as it was blocked by water near Chehalis and by a landslide along the Columbia.
fritzd - Jul 2, 2006 6:09 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2006
First BloodWe, my oldest brother and I, started from Timberline Lodge at 12:00 am. We reached the summit around 6:00 am. The climb up to and through the pearly gates was great, my first real technical snow climb.
While belaying my brother from the bergshrund I got hit by a rock on my cheak. I didn't see or hear it comming and it was about the size of my fist. Luckly all I got was a bloody cheak.
We followed some crazy russians, since this type of climbing is fairly new to my brother and I.