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strudolyubovClassic Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2013


Standard South-to-North traverse with Ryan. Simulclimbed except for the North Summit pitch. Rapped off the North Summit in a light rain. Nice rock, incredible views, - classic traverse!
Posted Jul 29, 2013 6:13 pm

Dow WilliamsSolo On Sight, Entire Crest  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2013

Dow Williams

6 hrs car to car, had it to myself, impending weather I suppose. Mostly a scramble until you get to the north peak, but even that is perfect hands and stemming up what they are calling off width in the corner. The corner (5.8 OW on Chris's topo) is much more secure for the soloist than the face option. You can clearly see that one rope makes the rap from the north tower if that is what you want to do. To clear it up, you just have to scramble between raps. One to the notch, one below the notch on 3rd class at most. Beyond the north summit are three situations for soloists. All much more intricate than the 5.7 climb up to the north tower. The first is lowering yourself on knobs in space to the knife edge ridge below at one step. If you are short, could be a problem. If you are terrified of your life relying on knobs, could be a problem. The second crux requires you to down climb a corner on the west side. Again, as difficult a down climb as the up climb to the north tower. need to be proficient at the grade. Than traversing back left. The third, and most difficult item of the day, is only faced if you are stubborn like myself and want to finish in style. Most are bailing off west just short of the last tower. I climbed, 5.8, a corner on the west side via stemming and hands, say 30 feet. Then traversed a no hands foot rail around a bulge not allowing me to see if it actually went or not as it narrowed to a fin...tense..but it does go. Eventually leap frog down to make it a hand rail, no feet (5.8-9) and down climb cracks at the end of it. Pretty spectacular way to finish, but gets you to the very end of the towers without bailing off into scree and saying you did the whole thing. The east side of this last tower is sheer face, trust me, I took a look. I took the ridge on to its terminus and then cut left for the obvious pass and down to Budd Lake. A bit of an elevation gain, but very quick descent on the other side. Huge hail and lightening storm once I got down to Budd Creek. Thinking of course how sweet that would not have been if I had been en route. I had a rope in case I needed to rap mid way, but the weather gods were kind this day. Soled Cathedral's Southeast Buttress the day before and see how these two make a nice link up for avid soloist. I was filling in days between guiding and should have planned it as a link up. Hope that helps....I have seen at least one summit log poster somewhere say there was no 5.8 north of the north tower as Chris warns in his guidebook. I have climbed with this same person and they were never much for the sharp end of the rope beyond that grade, so not so sure why the sandbag except for a little insecurity maybe. Chris (guidebook author) and I have a lot of experience, I solo a ton of stuff like this and those three situations north of the north tower are much more intricate than soloing say the Southeast Buttress on Cathedral but if you skip the last one it is not to bad.
Posted Jul 25, 2013 8:01 pm

haishanAlmost all the way...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2012


Soloed all but the N tower pitch. We made it to within a few hundred meters of the north end of the ridge, but couldn't see a reasonable downclimb along the ridge and walked off west. Continued on to Cathedral and Eichorn for the tri-fecta... great day!
Posted Mar 13, 2013 2:40 pm

cliffmfun  Sucess!


still haven't done the second half, after the summit.
Posted Oct 2, 2012 4:59 pm

seanoSweet solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2012


After chickening out at the crux last year, I finally nailed it this time around. Awesome climb! Trip report.
Posted Sep 29, 2012 9:21 pm

ElGrecoYeah!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2012


Spectacular climb with Jonathan! Just outstanding, all around. The 5.7 section to gain the summit was stout for the rating - I agree.
Posted Sep 11, 2012 6:58 pm

hubixGreate Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2011


It was a long day for us and we had to bail at the north summit because it was getting late. Next time I will do the full ridge with less belayed climbing. Did the 5.7 diagonal crack to the North summit. Felt hard.
Posted Jul 28, 2011 8:08 pm

zoomlocotraverse rock is excellent for first 1/2  Sucess!


The classic part of the traverse (south to peak) is perfect; the hyped traverse from peak to north is chossy and only has one excellent section (the wave) I was happy to solo the whole first half but due to rock quality was glad to rope up on the 2nd half. north 1/2 is not as classic as its hype, though the southern 1/2 certainly is. perfect rock and cool views. exposed but not terrifying...did the 5.9ow variation to the summit, which was very soft for the grade and well protected with a couple link cams...Sept 2010
Posted Jul 16, 2011 6:02 pm

PellucidWombatWonderful Climb!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2010


Led two pitches to the crest, and simul-climbed to the North Summit at about the same speed as some of the other soloists. The 5.7 knob/crack pitch was a bit much with a heavy pack on so I had to ditch it at the notch to finish the pitch - stout!
Posted Sep 7, 2010 2:32 pm

fatdadA good day  Sucess!


Climbed sometime in the last century (mid-90s) with Andrew Mullis. Simul-climbed the entire route with the exception of the final tower, which had a couple of moves I thought were pretty stiff for 5.7. Wonderful, wonderful scenery and vistas.
Posted Sep 29, 2009 5:58 pm

fossanarepeat  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2009


Back again for another solo of the full S > N traverse with Jascha. Only one other party on the route.
Posted Jul 4, 2009 1:42 am

dervinVery Awesome  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 27, 2007


Climbed this with my brother over memorial day weekend. Doesn't get much better than this. Cheers.
Posted Oct 9, 2008 10:27 am

bighornmonkeyReally great route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2008


Very fun route. We belayed 3 pitches of it and stayed roped for the traverse...in retrospect, it is probably best to free solo the ridge section.
After getting on the South and North Summit we rapped down. Some friends joined us on the North summit and carried on for the rest of the northern part of the ridge....Next time!
Posted Sep 2, 2008 2:21 pm

fossanalove the exposure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2008


Soloed the full S > N traverse (minus the final small tower) in 3 hours with Jascha. Brought a 30m, but left it in the pack when we found the crux to be a boulder problem. Started off disconcertingly windy, but then the winds died down. Even better the second time.
Posted Jun 23, 2008 2:28 pm

brucelacroixGreat feature  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2007
Mostly 4th class. Roped up for only 3 pitches. Awesome!
Posted Nov 24, 2007 10:37 am

Fred BagniSpectacular  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2007

Fred Bagni

Traversed the rige to the base of the north tower. Windy day. Soloed the ridge section.
Posted Jul 4, 2007 3:10 pm

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