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Southeast Corner

 
Southeast Corner

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.72271°N / 121.92421°W

Object Title: Southeast Corner

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.5 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Brian Jenkins

Created/Edited: Oct 29, 2007 / Nov 14, 2007

Object ID: 351629

Hits: 1930 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview

This route offers easy technical climbing on junky rock. It's adventure climbing to be sure but as far as that goes, this is pretty basic. It's fifth class but doesn't feel too exposed. There are nice handholds and ledges for the most part. Make sure you test all holds and placements, depending on your route there may be slight rope drag.

Getting There

See the Getting There section of the Spire Rock page for directions to the trailhead.

From the trailhead, hike the trail out 1.7 miles (stay right at the one junction and take the fork that goes up) to where the trail starts switchbacking up. Go up 3 switchbacks (yes, you seem to go away from the rock face but this will make it easier on you) to where it gains the saddle on the ridge. From here, scramble out the north ridge on exposed Class 3 rock bypassing one gendarme on the left to the base of the Southeast corner.

Route Description

Starting at a boulder, climb up and left around it to the other side where there is a whitened horizontal snag above you. Climb to the snag and then ascend the SE corner on big handholds and ledges. Bear slightly left to a lighter colored circle of rock where there is a nice ledge (the lighter colored rock is evident in the photo above about half way up the route where it takes a little jog to the left). The mental crux comes here where you move unprotected for about 20 feet or so up and left. Could go straight up from here or we angled left into a section between a rounded flake and the rock. Head up over the flake to easy ledges up to an old whitened tree trunk. From there it's an easy scramble to the summit. Rap the route from the webbing on the other side of the tree (left as you are looking down at it) back down to a spot just below the start of the route.

It also appeared possible to scramble right around the first boulder to start on the other side on ledges.

Essential Gear

Gear up to a #3 (blue) camalot. Extra triple length slings to sling rocks. I placed a blue and yellow camalot, slung two rocks, placed a red alien, #9 hex, a smaller hex and about a #1 stopper. Your results may vary.

Route is 120-150 feet so requires a double rope rappel.

External Links

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Images

Karl on the climb