From Interstate 5 in Burlington take WA 20 (North Cascades Highway) towards Sedro Woolley. Drive 47 miles to Marblemount and then get off on the Cascade River Road. Take this for 22 miles to a turnout (elevation 3,200 feet) beneath the impressive Northeast Face of Johannesburg Mountain.
Follow the climbers trail (originally a road to the Diamond Mine .75 miles above) to the vicinity of the mine site and then traverse open slopes. The climber’s trail is wiped out due to a large avalanche slide from Spring 2002. Continue North for approximately a half mile and cross four streams. A switchback trail leads to a moraine at 5,300 feet where multiple campsites and a compost toilet are located. a second camping area is located at 6,400 feet but remains snow covered until later in season.
Ascend the western edge of the Quien Sabe Glacier from Boston Basin to an elevation of 7,500 feet. Ascend a snow gully to the notch in the Southeast Ridge. Depending on conditions of the snow gully moderate fifth class climbing may be necessary to access the gully.
From the notch at the base of the ridge traverse along the right or east side of the ridge and then back to the ridge crest at a large ledge. At this point the Southeast Ridge is climbed, or an easier rock gully to the climber’s left, to a notch below the summit. The final pitch follows the right (east) side of the ridge to Sharkfin’s beautiful summit.
The route is descended via rappels and down-climbing. The gully can be down climbed or rappelled on the West side rock buttress of the gulley.
Ice axe, rope, small rack to 2 1/2 inches
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