Climbed up from camp in Palisade Basin with coworkers. Since it was a work-sponsored trip, we had a guide lead the summit block for us and we toproped the awesome 5.9. I intend to return for the entire traverse and am eager to do the daring lead myself.
iditarod81 - Aug 4, 2014 4:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2014
SW Chute #1 to Starlight
The 12th CA 14er for me and my husband! Thanks to guides Zach and Trevor for great leading up the SW chute and the famed summit block. Headed out along the ridgeline to summit Starlight afterwards and reached the top of the milk bottle right as the afternoon thunderstorms started rolling in...
skotty - Nov 11, 2010 6:50 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2010
2nd attempt
Second attempt. First time we were sure we hit a dead-end off course at the top. Turns out it was just around the corner.
SKI - Aug 16, 2010 9:54 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2010
Not that straightforward
Trend right for the most part while going up the chute or you'll be cool like us and end up on the NW ridge way early and have to downclimb back into the chute. Went under a giant chockstone near the summit and used the top of it to step over (right) onto a 5th class ledge/crack system that brought me to the top. Good luck on this fine (NOT) route.
PellucidWombat - Jun 22, 2010 10:08 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
Twice and I still don't like this route
#1: October 1, 2005 - via Southwest Chute #1. Fresh snow and high winds made us turn back 200' below the summit. I really didn't like the loose grit on the granite slabs midway up the couloir combined with the fall potential there. Not my favorite of slog chutes to climb.
b>#4: September 5-7, 2009 - via N Couloir with Jonathan Bye and Henry Steinberg. Bergschrund was a challenging brittle water ice on alpine ice climb, but a memorable lead. Took longer than expected due to the ice and my friends decided they didn't like the idea of sleeping on the ridge, so we bailed down the SW Chute #1 after finishing the route. Doh!
Blackmouth - Aug 10, 2009 8:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009
SW Chute # 1
Used this to gain the summit block of Thunderbolt on our T-Bolt to Sill Traverse. With a group of 6 the rock fall was surprisingly minimal. We anticipated snow and ice, but were able to get up without the need of ice axe or crampons, even though we brought them.
LuisGijon - Sep 24, 2008 2:22 am Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2008
SW Chute
Nice climb with Willand Fred, in a chilly sunny day. Will led the summit block. Fred and me top roped it.
theflyingmountaineer - Aug 4, 2014 7:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2014
SW Chute #1Climbed up from camp in Palisade Basin with coworkers. Since it was a work-sponsored trip, we had a guide lead the summit block for us and we toproped the awesome 5.9. I intend to return for the entire traverse and am eager to do the daring lead myself.
iditarod81 - Aug 4, 2014 4:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2014
SW Chute #1 to StarlightThe 12th CA 14er for me and my husband! Thanks to guides Zach and Trevor for great leading up the SW chute and the famed summit block. Headed out along the ridgeline to summit Starlight afterwards and reached the top of the milk bottle right as the afternoon thunderstorms started rolling in...
skotty - Nov 11, 2010 6:50 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2010
2nd attemptSecond attempt. First time we were sure we hit a dead-end off course at the top. Turns out it was just around the corner.
SKI - Aug 16, 2010 9:54 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2010
Not that straightforwardTrend right for the most part while going up the chute or you'll be cool like us and end up on the NW ridge way early and have to downclimb back into the chute. Went under a giant chockstone near the summit and used the top of it to step over (right) onto a 5th class ledge/crack system that brought me to the top. Good luck on this fine (NOT) route.
PellucidWombat - Jun 22, 2010 10:08 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
Twice and I still don't like this route#1: October 1, 2005 - via Southwest Chute #1. Fresh snow and high winds made us turn back 200' below the summit. I really didn't like the loose grit on the granite slabs midway up the couloir combined with the fall potential there. Not my favorite of slog chutes to climb.
b>#4: September 5-7, 2009 - via N Couloir with Jonathan Bye and Henry Steinberg. Bergschrund was a challenging brittle water ice on alpine ice climb, but a memorable lead. Took longer than expected due to the ice and my friends decided they didn't like the idea of sleeping on the ridge, so we bailed down the SW Chute #1 after finishing the route. Doh!
Blackmouth - Aug 10, 2009 8:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009
SW Chute # 1Used this to gain the summit block of Thunderbolt on our T-Bolt to Sill Traverse. With a group of 6 the rock fall was surprisingly minimal. We anticipated snow and ice, but were able to get up without the need of ice axe or crampons, even though we brought them.
LuisGijon - Sep 24, 2008 2:22 am Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2008
SW ChuteNice climb with Willand Fred, in a chilly sunny day. Will led the summit block. Fred and me top roped it.
dubhunter - Sep 22, 2008 6:36 pm Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2008
SW Chute + Summit Block LeadClimbed with Fred & Luis. Ended up at Lightning Rod, so we had to downclimb then up to the Summit Bock. Lead the 5.9 side of the bock.
myles - Feb 29, 2008 1:46 pm
sw chuteBeautiful weather--free climbed summit
mybackyard - Aug 12, 2007 10:22 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007
SW ChuteT-bolt to Sill traverse day hike with forjan & fossana
fossana - Apr 8, 2007 10:50 pm
SW ChuteSep ?, 2002
Tbolt-Starlight link-up from Palisade Basin