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pvalchevSW face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2015


I concur this felt harder than Keeler - steeper and more intimidating climb.. Also the 6th pitch 5.8 chimney was my mental crux (mostly because I had left the #6 at the belay!) Trip report and photos: http://sightly.net/peter/trips/conness2015/

The second pitch is the most fun :)
Posted Aug 5, 2015 3:11 pm

Dow WilliamsSouthwest Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2015

Dow Williams

With Peter V. I went after that wet first pitch and shouldn't have (you have an easy option to the right). I am obsessed with seeing the FAer's ground on the first run. I was soaked and covered in mud. All of my gear was in wet placements. When I finally traversed right, it to was over wet and moss covered slab with wet shoes. The 2nd pitch is outstanding. I led the OW 4th pitch and it is one of the better pitches in all of Tuolumne. I took one #6 and punched it up and left it about half way and ran out the rest. Did not bother clipping Harding's old star drives. The second half of the OW afforded more chicken wings, felt more secure. The 5th pitch, as noted in this write up on SP (his 6th pitch), was a sleeper. The 5.10b traverse did not feel that hard at all, but the 5.9-5.8 corner is a sandbagged pitch for that grade. Two great pitches, 2 and 4 (when we did the OW pitch). We did it in 7 roped pitches. It is a much bigger day then you think for 7 pitches though. We took a single #3, #4 and #6 and that was perfect besides are normal rack to #2. Got sun at about 9am in late July.
Posted Jul 27, 2015 3:25 pm

ChugachManFun route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2009


Fun time with Luke. Brought doubles through BD#2, then a 3, 4, and 6 (new style) (no #5). The 4 wasn't necessary, but was used. I didn't feel I missed the 5, but liked having the #6 in the OW, and thought it was worth bringing. The old bolts on the route were pretty cool looking, but I wouldn't want to fall on them (wish I'd taken a pic of them too). We used a 70 m, and with about 10 feet of simul-climbing on the first pitch, were able to get to the start of the OW in 2 rope-stretchers for about 6 pitches total, and some scrambling to the top. Didn't bring packs, but dressed warm, and were happy to not have a pack in the OW. Really fun route.
Posted Sep 21, 2009 1:07 pm

kovarpaQuality route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009


with Michal. I lead P2, P4, P6 and then some random pitches towards the end. None of it was really super hard, the OW was easier than I thought. The 5.8 (haha) "chimney" on P6 caught me by surprise. Do yourself a favor and remove your backpack before starting P6. On P4 (OW), I lead and then we hauled packs on one rope and Michal followed on the other.
Total climbing time 8.5 hrs.
Posted Aug 31, 2009 9:36 pm

MichaelJEasier than Copper Penny  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2009


Climbed with Scott. I led the odd pitches, which gave me the OW, which I didn't think was that bad at all, nowhere near as hard as Copper Penny in the valley, which is the same grade. The start of the 10a section protects well with a gold c4 and a medium nut (not to mention the ancient bolt). And you can slide a #6 up this section and well into the 5.8 OW section as well. Some of the upper pitches on the route had fiddly gear that would make them fairly heads up for someone leading near their limit. All in all, a good adventure climb.
Posted Jul 28, 2009 3:34 pm

poorboy44Harder than Keeler Needle?  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008


Cool route, I found the OW difficult (harder than Keeler Needle?) Maybe I'm just out of shape. The wall gets sun about 10:30 AM.
Posted Sep 29, 2008 2:22 pm

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