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brentaRoute Comment

brenta

Voted 10/10

We found three cairns between the lizard and the summit. The first two were on the North face, and the third was on the South face. To reach the summit we crossed again to the North of the ridge. The route that follows the cairns is Class 3. The stretch on the South face is exposed, but on solid rock with excellent handles and footholds.
Posted Aug 13, 2004 2:29 am

NelsonRoute Comment

Nelson

Hasn't voted

OK, thanks for the update. Did you knock the cairns down?! Only half kidding. It's possible the cairns were there on our ascent but I would have certainly ignored them. There are so many cairns scattered around everywhere that, with few exceptions, they simply mean "someone else was here". They don't necessarily indicate that you are on route, or that the person who built them knew where they were. I have several stories where they actually steered you off route, though that was presumably not their intent. I did destroy those cairns. One was quite large.



In this case it sounds like they steered you either north or south. Considering those were the only two options they are not providing any useful information.



Anyway, hope you had a great climb on this fun little mountain.
Posted Aug 15, 2004 12:16 am

brentaRoute Comment

brenta

Voted 10/10

Cairns are sometimes as deceptive as the pitons that retreating climbers leave off-route. Besides, they may be gone soon, for natural or other causes. In this case, however, I just wanted to note that the difficulties are quite modest if one keeps initially to the N of the ridge and then crosses to the S (after the second cairn). I should have also pointed out that the cairns are not so visible when one climbs towards the summit. We just found them along what looked like the line of least resistance.



Yes, it was a fun cliimb. Thanks for creating its page. We went down into Tourmaline gorge. The descent on the N face from the saddle E of the lizard leads to one tricky spot, a short, shallow chimney, which I found more challenging than the ridge, but makes for better memories once one forgets the trudge up from Lake Odessa to regain the lost elevation. There is a faint trail between Tourmaline Lake and Lake Odessa, but we only came upon it towards the end of the descent.
Posted Aug 16, 2004 12:49 pm

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