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Sperone Centrale Via dello Spigolo/Central Spur Edge

Sperone Centrale Via dello Spigolo/Central Spur Edge

Sperone Centrale Via dello Spigolo/Central Spur Edge

Page Type: Route

Location: Italy, Europe

Object Title: Sperone Centrale Via dello Spigolo/Central Spur Edge

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: IV 1p. V UIAA (IV obbl)

Number of Pitches: 2

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: RenatoG

Created/Edited: Jul 3, 2008 / Jul 4, 2008

Object ID: 417783

Hits: 3154 

Page Score: 77.48%  - 8 Votes 

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Central spur: Edge route
The route

Terminillo, in summer, doesn’t offer many opportunities for climbers: the rock walls are low and the rock quality is generally poor (often very bad).
However, climbers from Rieti, devoted to their mountain, climb often the face of east and north side of Terminillo.
Unknown climbers from Rieti climb first, in the 60ies, the edge of Central Spur of Monte Terminillo: today, this route don’t have a great appeal, but I think that is a good opportunity for climbers who live in central Italy, to make an easy climb in a nice scenery, especially when you have short time or the weather doesn’t permit to do more demanding climb.
The route is an easy 2 pitch climb, with the difficulties concentrated in the first pitch.

Difficulty: IV with a passage of V UIAA (avoidable)
Lenght: about 90m
Rock quality: poor, but quite good in the harder passages
Best season to climb: summer, autumn, late spring.

Approach and Route Description

From Rifugio Sebastiani Hut, take the path toward Sella di Leonessa saddle: when you are under Canalone Centrale couloir, bear toward the spur on the right of the gully: rise up the scree, following some trails through the gravel; when you reach the base of the rocks, skirt the pillar (some faded triangle painted on the rocks), cross the Canalone Centrale gully and reach the edge of Central Spur (Click here to see the approach trail topo)

To describe the route, few words and many pictures:

Pitch 1: Climb up a compact slab (V UIAA, protected with a ring bolt): this passage is avoidable keeping an easier ramp on the left; then keep climbing slightly on your left on easy but a bit dirty rock; then, continue on your right, near the edge (IV) until you reach a beautiful slab (good rock, IV); climb up the slab until you reach a little terrace where there’s the belay (bolt + peg) - 60m V (IV obbl.) pegs 1 ring bolt

Pitch 2: from the belay, follow a narrow ledge on the right, then climb several small rock walls (III) until you reach the meadows where the route ends: make belay on a rock - 30m III pegs

From the exit of the route, follow the easy ridge and, in 10min, you can reach Terminillo main summit (2212m)

The start of the route

Not so good rock

Beginning of the route

On the Edge

Amusing slab

Reaching the belay point

Belay n.1

The end of the route


From Terminillo summit, the faster and easier descent is by the path of the normal route, passing on the south-east ridge: 45min to Sebastiani hut

Essential Gear

60m rope, helmet, strings, 10 quickdraws
The route is well protected with pegs: nothing else is needed, but could be useful some strings or cords

Central spur - Edge route

External Links

Huts of Terminillo

A live view of the Central Spur and its edge from Rifugio Sebastiani Hut

Current weather conditions and forecast for Monte Terminillo

Alpine Rescue Lazio - Soccorso Alpino Lazio - phone nr. 118


Central Spur from northCentral spur - Edge route: the cruxCentral spur: Edge routeCentral spur - Edge routeOn the topApproachingEast side
Central spur - Edge routeIn the middle of first pitchCentral spur - Edge routeOn the edgeApproach pathSperone Centrale - via dello SpigoloEnd of the pitch
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