| Sperone Centrale Via dello Spigolo/Central Spur Edge Route |
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| Sperone Centrale Via dello Spigolo/Central Spur Edge   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Italy, Europe Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing Season: Summer, Fall Time Required: Half a day Difficulty: IV 1p. V UIAA (IV obbl) Number of Pitches: 2
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| Page By: RenatoG Created/Edited: Jul 3, 2008 / Jul 4, 2008 Object ID: 417783 Hits: 1568 Loading... Page Score: 87.46% - 8 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
Terminillo, in summer, doesn’t offer many opportunities for climbers: the rock walls are low and the rock quality is generally poor (often very bad).
However, climbers from Rieti, devoted to their mountain, climb often the face of east and north side of Terminillo.
Unknown climbers from Rieti climb first, in the 60ies, the edge of Central Spur of Monte Terminillo: today, this route don’t have a great appeal, but I think that is a good opportunity for climbers who live in central Italy, to make an easy climb in a nice scenery, especially when you have short time or the weather doesn’t permit to do more demanding climb.
The route is an easy 2 pitch climb, with the difficulties concentrated in the first pitch.
Difficulty: IV with a passage of V UIAA (avoidable)
Lenght: about 90m
Rock quality: poor, but quite good in the harder passages
Best season to climb: summer, autumn, late spring.
Approach and Route DescriptionFrom Rifugio Sebastiani Hut, take the path toward Sella di Leonessa saddle: when you are under Canalone Centrale couloir, bear toward the spur on the right of the gully: rise up the scree, following some trails through the gravel; when you reach the base of the rocks, skirt the pillar (some faded triangle painted on the rocks), cross the Canalone Centrale gully and reach the edge of Central Spur (Click here to see the approach trail topo)
To describe the route, few words and many pictures:
Pitch 1: Climb up a compact slab (V UIAA, protected with a ring bolt): this passage is avoidable keeping an easier ramp on the left; then keep climbing slightly on your left on easy but a bit dirty rock; then, continue on your right, near the edge (IV) until you reach a beautiful slab (good rock, IV); climb up the slab until you reach a little terrace where there’s the belay (bolt + peg) - 60m V (IV obbl.) pegs 1 ring bolt
Pitch 2: from the belay, follow a narrow ledge on the right, then climb several small rock walls (III) until you reach the meadows where the route ends: make belay on a rock - 30m III pegs
From the exit of the route, follow the easy ridge and, in 10min, you can reach Terminillo main summit (2212m)
The start of the route |
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Not so good rock |
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Beginning of the route |
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On the Edge |
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Amusing slab |
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Reaching the belay point |
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Belay n.1 |
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The end of the route |
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Descent
From Terminillo summit, the faster and easier descent is by the path of the normal route, passing on the south-east ridge: 45min to Sebastiani hut
Essential Gear60m rope, helmet, strings, 10 quickdraws
The route is well protected with pegs: nothing else is needed, but could be useful some strings or cords
External LinksHuts of Terminillo
A live view of the Central Spur and its edge from Rifugio Sebastiani Hut
Current weather conditions and forecast for Monte Terminillo
Alpine Rescue Lazio - Soccorso Alpino Lazio - phone nr. 118 Images
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