Spigolo Bozzetti

Overview

The east spur of Punta Jean Charrey (the southernmost summit of Trident de l'Aroletta) was first ascended by Angelo Bozzetti and Piero Rosset in 1960. Their route had been repeated only about ten times when Buscaini's guidebook Alpi Pennine was published in 1971, but has since become a classic, thanks to its proximity to Rifugio Crête Sèche, the quality of the rock, and the elegance of the line.

The route, which has come to be known as Spigolo Bozzetti, is about 300 m long and gains about 270 m in elevation. Belays recently equipped with two bolts and chains divide the ascent in 12 short pitches. With a 50-meter rope, it is possible to combine pairs of pitches, at least in the lower part of the route.

There are a few fixed pins on the crux pitch, originally rated V+/A0. This pitch is usually climbed free nowadays. (I've seen it rated 6b on the French scale, which is probably accurate.) Buscaini compares Spigolo Bozzetti to the Salluard route on the east spur of Pic Adolphe. This places the route somewhere between TD- and TD in terms of overall difficulty, in agreement with the assessment of other ascenders.

Getting There

From Rifugio Crête Sèche, follow a faint trail that crosses the scree slopes aiming for snow at the base of the spur. Crampons and/or axe may come in handy on this snow slope. The start of the route is at the lowest point of the spur. It is also possible to reach the start from Bivacco Spataro with a descending traverse to the base of the snow. The approach takes between 30 and 60 minutes.

Route Description

The first six pitches alternate between dihedrals and the crest of the ridge with moderate difficulties (III to IV+). The route then moves to the immediate right of the spur and passes a nice slab (V) and then the crux dihedral (V+/A0 or 6b) that puts one on a shoulder below the summit tower (pitches 7-9). From the shoulder to the summit it is another three pitches on decreasing difficulties.

A topo of this route and others in its vicinity can be found here.

Descent

It is possible to rappel from the summit of Punta Jean Charrey following either the route itself or the Brontolo-Balakov further west. We traversed along the ridge with moderate difficulties to reach the summit of Vierge de l'Aroletta. From there, we reached, with a few short rappels and some downclimbing, Col del l'Aroletta. From the col, the descent is on easy rocks, scree, and snow.

Essential Gear

Nuts and small to medium cams. A 50-meter rope suffices for the ascent. Two ropes recommended if you plan to rappel along one of the routes. Mountaineering boots and possibly crampons/axe useful for the approach and the descent from Col de l'Aroletta.

Images

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