From the notch on the south side of the tower start across the first pitch of the Regular Route. Climb up a chimney (5.7) to belay on chockstones. From there, the fun begins -- 5.10 OW, dicey hooking, and wild free climbing up the South Arete will bring you to the summit.
See topo of Regular Route.
This route is also the most efficient descent from the summit: Downclimb to the Block (5.7, less than half rope length, a 1/4" bolt on the lower summit allows a top rope belay for the last man down). From the block, a 160 foot rappel straight down the south side lands you at a 3-bolt hanging station. From there, a 100 foot rap goes to the top of the South Gendarme, and another 100 foot rappel leads to the notch. With 60m ropes, from the hanging station it is possible to swing out, grab the top of the South Gendarme, and continue down to the notch in a single rappel.
See also descent topo.
Ice axe and crampons are required equipment in early season.
2 each tiny nuts to #5 Camalots
1 each #3 and #4 Big Bros
2 each angles, baby and standard
Minimum of 2 50-meter ropes necessary for descent, 60-meter preferable.
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.