w/A.J., awesome climb in a thrilling position! we didn't stick to any particular route on the lower pitches and had some fun leading through 5.5-5.7 cliff bands. added the mornin' finish(5.7) and felt that lovely rush going through its crux!
A very aesthetic route on an impressive peak! I absolutely LOVED this climb. Routefinding was straigtforward following Roach's description. Climbed both the highpoint and the spire on the end of the ridge. The climbing on the spire is very exposed! Descended the standard route - the exposure on the traversing part is insane! I definately wouldn't want to be anywhere on this peak in the rain.
After starting the South Ridge Direct and getting blown on the hard steep climbing, we rapped down to the big ledge and finished the Spiral Route with the Mornin' 5.7 finish to the notch and got down the 3 long raps just before the afternoon thunderstorms started. It was a wet, and somewhat scarey, walk out.