Welcome to SP!  -
Split Lip Falls

Split Lip Falls

Split Lip Falls

Page Type: Route

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 52.98183°N / 117.35682°W

Object Title: Split Lip Falls

Route Type: Ice Climbing

Season: Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Grade 3

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: GCutforth

Created/Edited: Dec 15, 2007 / Jan 6, 2008

Object ID: 365335

Hits: 4303 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote



Split Lip Falls is a climb that has been talked about by locals and climbers from Edmonton for a few years. It has a reasonably short approach if you can drive to the back of the camping area.

Split Lip Falls - Cadomin
The Namesake
The climb pours over the lip of a small rock amphitheatre making for a nice atmosphere. It is about 10 metres in length with several steeper and mixed variations. It is a great moderate for an early season warm up.

Disclaimer: I had not yet heard of a name for this climb and took the liberty of naming it after getting the business from an ice dagger to the lip. If there is already a name for this climb please pass it along and I will correct as necessary. Personally I like Split Lip Falls, but fair is fair.

Getting There

The village of Cadomin can be reached most easily from Hinton or Edson.

If travelling from Hinton. Drive west of Hinton to Highway 40 South and follow this road for about 46 km to a T-intersection. Turn right here and follow it to the town of Cadomin 2 km down the road.

Google Map From Hinton

Coming from Edson. Drive west through Edson on Hwy 16 for about 9 km and turn south onto Secondary Road 47. This will take you South past the village of Robb and to another intersection after another 60 km. Stay left and continue south to Cadomin.

Google Map From Edson

Continue through Cadomin heading south until you reach a fork in the road. Take the left road which will take you under the overpass into the Whitehorse Creek Campgroud. Park as far back as you can depending on the condition of the road.

Google Map Cadomin to Parking Area


From the back of the campground continue west on the Whitehorse Creek horse trail following the Whitehorse Creek. After about 10 minute a side valley will come into view to your left. You can often see the ice if you walk far enough along the trail.

Cross the creek which is usually frozen and cross the meadow following the obvious drainage. Continue up the left side of the drainage for 10-15 minutes and work your way into the base of the falls when they come into view.

Route Description

Split Lip Falls - Cadomin
Split Lip Falls
The route is straight forward. There is one 10 metre pitch of grade 3 ice. The ice at the top is often rotten and thin so take care topping out.

Steeper lines often form both to the left and right and mixed opportunities abound in the amphitheatre.

Essential Gear

Typical ice rack.


It is easiest to walk off to the climber's left and work your way back to the base or you can rappel the route.

External Links

There are two great websites for ice conditions in the Canadian Rockies:



Live The Vision - Ice Conditions.


Split Lip Falls - CadominSplit Lip Falls - Cadomin