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Split Mountain Climber's Log

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charitydominicNE Slope, git er done  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2006


Yup, do this one. Had a lot of fun. Would repeat.
Posted Oct 30, 2014 6:31 pm

DougHemkenCar to car  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2014


Car-to-car from the Meadows. Took us about 14 hours.
Posted Aug 1, 2014 8:25 am

ElGrecoSt. Jean couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 24, 2014


With Max. Went with hopes to climb the East Couloir but the recent snowfall was still causing sluffs and it was very warm, so we thought better of it and went up the St. Jean with a bunch of useless rock and ice gear... Mostly a soft snow slog with a couple of mixed moves to overcome a step with hollow snow underneath it.

I have to say, if Split were not a 14er, a small fraction of folks would climb it. Interesting geology, but it's not an elegant or aesthetic peak - just a heap of... stuff. Red Lake is wonderful. Beautiful views from the top, but a totally anticlimactic summit (just a flat spot somewhere up there).

High clearance definitely recommended for the drive. I thought the trail was fine - don't see why people complain. Just make sure to walk north from the parking area on a road to the green patch with the spring to find the start. Tips for staying on it: follow the wide, traily thing in the middle and don't veer to the side...
Posted May 27, 2014 12:14 am

bricewilsonFrom Red Lake TH  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2013


Day 5 of SC13. 5:00am car; 11:15am summit; 11:35am departed summit; 3:30pm car. Made it to LAX with plenty of time to spare for my red-eye back to NYC.
Posted Mar 30, 2014 10:02 pm

danblockNorth Slope from East  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2013
The trail to Red Lake is kinda of a pain, but it was beautiful at the lake under the peak. Hiked with Vincent and Nick and made the summit without any trouble--just lots of scree and talus. It felt like a long way back to the car.

We took the standard dirt access road in a recent Subaru Forrester--no problems, but it takes a while.
Posted Jan 22, 2014 5:34 pm

JeremiahJohnsonJMT side trip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2013
Did this as a side trip on a JMT thru-hike that included lots of extra peaks. Summitted with Connie & Eric - 2 other JMTers that wanted to get in an extra 14er for their thru hike.
Posted Oct 28, 2013 12:32 am

PastorronDidn't make it this time
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2013


Tried to day hike it but our group got off course and by the time we got back on the right trail the chances of making the summit had gone way down. I got up as high as the notch but had to turn around so we could get back down safely. Will return in future.
Posted Oct 6, 2013 12:46 am

camden kirkpatrickRe: Didn't make it this time

camden kirkpatrick

Its alright, I didn't make it to the top of Mount Elbert caused by a blizzard, almost sub zero temperature's, and my mom, and dad were tired too, so don't feel bad.
Posted Jan 28, 2015 9:59 am

douggrangerNorth Ridge, East approach  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2007


With Maggie.
Posted Sep 12, 2013 8:49 pm

jdmorehouseSolo Dayhike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2013


Although I started with a partner, we parted ways about a mile and a half into the climb. After a five thirty start, the day warmed up as soon as the sun was up, and I don't care for warm climbs. The first real view of the peak was at the lower Red Lake, and it was awesome (to use an over used word). Rising nearly 4000' from the lake, it looked like an impossible climb. Loose and unstable rock in the moraine fields added to the difficulty. The final chute up to the summit ridge was steep, loose, and I was glad to find 3rd class rock to hold onto. The views on the summit, though, are the best I've experienced yet. The descent was much faster for me and was back at the car well before dark. Note: the road in, although in bad repair, was not nearly as bad as I had been led to believe. My XTerra had no issues at all with any of it, and a fairly low clearance car had made it to the parking area after me (a group of back packers), so careful driving will get most vehicles there.
Posted Aug 14, 2013 7:22 pm

DonnoN. Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 1995


W/ Peter & Rahil. Doug stayed in camp.
Posted Aug 12, 2013 10:38 am

DebDayhike!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2013


No problems with road, albeit rough and jaggedy. Dayhiked from Red Lake trailhead, and wasted an hour and 500' elevation gain by getting off trail. Still made trip C2C 12 hrs. Class 3 chute was fun, still had snow so the right wall was the place to be. Hot. No skeeters.
Posted Jun 29, 2013 4:41 pm

Steve PrattLate May ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 25, 2013

Steve Pratt

Been there. Done that. Barfed on the summit. That's what happens when you go from 90 feet elevation to 14,000 in one night.

I ascended the hourglass-shaped gulley to the right of the class-3 rocks up to the north slope. My buddy went up the rocks. Six of one. Coming down it was late and I thought the snow might be icy. Came down snow anyway and to our delight the snow was very soft and forgiving. Never glissaded a crux pitch before.
Posted May 28, 2013 5:28 pm

royandersonFrom JMT  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2008


My brother Ed and I climbed this as a fun detour from the JMT that we were doing, having started in Yosemite, going North to South.
Posted Mar 9, 2013 9:47 pm

orbitorFrom Upper Basin via Taboose Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2012


So much easier coming from the west to the Split-Prater Saddle, then up the north slopes to the summit. Tremendous views in all directions. Did it over Labor Day on a 3-day backpack from Taboose, really enjoyed the area.
Posted Oct 29, 2012 1:40 pm

rdesotaWtih bro  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2002


a long hike up the east side and a quick trip from the bay area over the weekend. Found it interesting that my father had climbed split mountain by moonlight 25 years prior.
Posted Oct 8, 2012 12:29 pm

TheNobleSunfishExtra approach!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2012


My car wouldn't have made it, so parked near Tinemaha campground and hiked/jogged the extra 6.5 miles to and from the trailhead and did the standard route. I'd agree that the crux is more like loose class 2 than it is class 3. 12:45 C2C.
Posted Sep 28, 2012 3:42 pm

iditarod81Glad we rented a Jeep  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2012


The road in is beastly and our Prius would not have survived. Beautiful and remote, though, nice to be in a less crowded place.
Posted Sep 6, 2012 1:33 am

CWesselsFrom Taboose  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2012


Up the North Slope. This seemed like an endless slog. A route from the east would probably have been far more enjoyable.
Posted Aug 3, 2012 7:01 pm

MountainManDanNeeds More Summit Reg Paper  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2012
Summited via north slope June 8th. Overnighted at Red Lake. After reading many posts I think I can save a lot of people trouble with getting to the TH. Took the short cut via South Fish Springs Rd. in the middle of the night to get to the TH. USE THIS ROUTE TO AVOID MCMURRAY MEADOW RD!! Used the girlfriends Subuaru Outback, clearance was perfect - 4 wheel drive was not needed. Someone mentioned doing it in a Ford Focus...crazy bastards. Passed Tinemaha Campgrounds onto Fuller Rd. After studying the satelite image from google earth and a good topo we made all the correct turns and ended up at the MARKED TH. DO NOT START HERE!! Travel back 1/8th of a mile to a spring (looks and sounds like a decent creek with tons of green brush) start here. The trail will begin switchbacking up the hill. THIS trail was in good shape all the way to the lake and no bushwhacking but encountered some steep sections with loose scree. Got a 6:30am start and made it to Red Lake shortly before noon. Stayed the night. 3 hours from Red Lake to the summit of Split. Enjoy the views north and south from "South Palisade" as you get a good look at almost all the 14ers in the region, including White Mountain.
Posted Jun 21, 2012 4:31 am

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