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dankrasRoute Climbed: North Slope Date Climbed: August 2002  Sucess!


Great day; easy climb from Red Lake.
Posted Jun 6, 2004 6:18 pm

RSN473Route Climbed: NW slope Date Climbed: July 1997  Sucess!


solo trip to Upper Basin. Also climbed Mt. Prater on the way back to camp. Camp was raided by hungy ravens and I had to eat trout for 2 days - bummer
Posted Mar 4, 2004 6:19 pm

cragRoute Climbed: N slope from Red Lake Date Climbed: August 1998  Sucess!


Made it all the way to the Red Lake trailhead in my Bronco. Backpacked up the overgrown, unmaintained, miserable trail to Red Lake. Russ and Tony (speedclimb.com) passed me early in the day and came by on their descent shortly after I reached the lake. I spent the night there, then bagged the peak (first 14er) the following day. Hans passed me at the Split/Prater saddle. The N slope was pleasant firn, a nice alternative to what I gather is usually a scree/talus slog. Picked up my overnight pack on the way down and made it out to the trailhead in the mid afternoon. Nice peak, if I go back I'll probably opt for St. Jean's Coulior.
Posted Jan 23, 2004 12:43 pm

Dr. MishuginuhRoute Climbed: St. Jean's Couloir Date Climbed: October 2, 2003
Needed crampons and ice ax for 45-60 degree ice at base of couloir.

From 11,500 to 13,500 found sttep and loose dirt and rock.

Much rock fall, helmet essential.

I was th eobject of the rescue effort noted in other reports.

200 feet from topping out on St. Jean's I took a free climb detour up the north wall. Don't ask me why!

Fell 20 feet onto a loose ledge...Thank G_d not the rest of the 2000 ft. down St. Jean's

Broken rigth ankle and deep laceration to left arm.

Climbing partner left for help.

One night alone on ledge - cold but no snow.

Inyo County Search and Rescue was incredible.

Brought water and sleeping bag.

Moved me to litter on the third day and airlifted out by Army National Guard Chinook from Pendleton Oregon.

Won't be doing that again for a while.

Maybe will return in spring to use North Ridge route when snow and ice cover much of the scree fields.

No weight bearing until mid-December!!

Doctoes orders!
Posted Nov 12, 2003 12:03 pm

AndinistalocoRoute Climbed: St. Jean Couloir Date Climbed: August 2002  Sucess!


Boy, did I pick a bad time of the year to do this route. It looked nice from below but was filled with dirt, loose rock, wet remnants of snow and a patch of ice here and there. Climb took forever and I ended up getting back to the car around 6 a.m.

Posted Oct 28, 2003 5:36 pm

egwadeRoute Climbed: None Date Climbed: October 27
Just a note to support a photo added showing the Oregon National Guard Chinook Helicopter on the rescue meission mentioned by climbers in this log.
Posted Oct 27, 2003 10:18 am

GuiltyRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: October 6, 2003  Sucess!


I was heading up St Jean Couloir, but a rescue was going on towards the top of it. No snow and a lot of rock fall. I opt for the North Ridge.

The only time I didn't bring a camera and I regret it!

I watched as the Army CH-47 helicopter fly up and down three times to evacuate the supplies and ground crew by hoist . It was very dramatic with it hovering between the peaks. Spent a lot of time watching the action and talking with a rescue guy. I guest someone reported me missing too.

I did the round-trip from trailhead under 8 hours. This was my third time up and third time completing all the Cal. fourteener's. YEA!

Oh, I made it to trailhead in a two-wheel drive truck from the campground. All you need to do is follow the pave/dirt road from the campground to the ranch. Go right to the end of the his fence, then left following the fence line, and another left at the top, and it runs into Red Lake Trailhead road. Road is very very bumpy.
Posted Oct 7, 2003 7:51 pm

Rick KentRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: October 5, 2003  Sucess!

Rick Kent

Did a solo dayhike to the summit via the Red Lake trail. Damn that road sucks! Got to watch search and rescue team fly in with a chopper in an attempt to rescue a fallen climber. The climber had taken a fall in one of the steep couloirs the day before and had to spend the night up there while his buddies came down to call for help. The chopper made a number of trips back and forth from the valley to the mountain dropping off gear, supplies, and 4 or 5 crew. I arrived at the top of the couloir (via the North Ridge) at the same time the first search and rescue guy did. On my way down from the summit I talked more with the rescue guys and they said they would probably be spending the night up there with the injured climber. The climber had apparently sustained a broken leg and laceration to the arm. Hope no one got injured getting him out of there. He really was in an extremely difficult location to get to.
Posted Oct 7, 2003 7:07 pm

sloclimbrRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: September 17, 2003  Sucess!
Had a long and fun climb from the Red Lake Trailhead. I think the hardest part was making my legs go back down again! We did the round trip in 9hrs.
Posted Sep 22, 2003 10:27 am

forjanRoute Climbed: North Slope via Red Lake Date Climbed: September 13, 2003  Sucess!


Day hiked the North Slope of Split via Red Lake with climbing buddies Mike and Alex. It took us just over 16 hours roundtrip. We had beautiful weather all day.
Posted Sep 15, 2003 11:52 pm

agorokhovRoute Climbed: Red Lake/North Slope Date Climbed: Sept. 13, 2003  Sucess!
Climbed it in a day from the Red Lake trailhead with friends Miguel and Mike. Had a great time.
Posted Sep 15, 2003 3:54 pm

mdostbyRoute Climbed: Red Lake/North Slope Date Climbed: Sept. 13, 2003  Sucess!


Day hiked from the Red Lake trailhead with friends Miguel and Alex. Perfect weather. A very long and fun day!
Posted Sep 15, 2003 1:52 pm

rmjwintersRoute Climbed: North Slope Date Climbed: 08/31/2003  Sucess!


Melissa and I reached the summit after a long trek from Red Lake trailhead. The endless boulderfield and talus was enough for one trip, one week, one lifetime. This particular summit completed my personal Grand Slam of climbing all 14ers in the lower 48 states, all CO 14ers, all CA 14ers and Mount Rainier. My trip report has a few more details.

Posted Sep 3, 2003 3:25 pm

thebeave7Route Climbed: Northeast slope from Red Mt Lake Date Climbed: August 6th, 2003  Sucess!


Another successful peak bagged. Huffed it from just outside the ranch(car wouldn't make the drive) to basecamp at Red Mt Lake on Tuesday. Wednesday hit the trail at 7am, summited at 10am. Then hauled ass down to the car by 3pm. Would suggest taking a 4wd, so you don't have to hike the extra 3.5 miles!!! Weather was perfect though. Split Mt also needs a new register book. If you are heading up, please bring one with you.
Posted Aug 7, 2003 12:40 am

Paul SpraycarRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: August 7, 1999  Sucess!
We spent a cold, windy night camped on the Split-Prater saddle and woke up to climb the north ridge to the summit by sunrise.
Posted Jul 26, 2003 4:03 pm

PellucidWombatRoute Climbed: North Slope Date Climbed: October 2002  Sucess!


What a day hike! We got lost in the thick brush on the hike down in the dark, though. Only took us 1 hour to find the trail again.
Posted Apr 17, 2003 5:05 pm

DigglerRoute Climbed: Red Lake -> Bad Idea route -> N Ridge Date Climbed: 9 September, 2001  Sucess!


Started up from Red Lake @ 4.40 on 9.9.01, apparently ahead of another party (saw there headlamps down below later). At the receding glacier/permanent snowfield, decided to head straight up the cliff, for what looked like 20 or so ft of fun class 4. I stupidly continued after it was apparent that the section was much higher than anticipated. At one point I almost fell to my demise when a huge block I grabbed for a handhold came out. Incredibly, I finally made it to the moderate N-slope, summiting at 8.25. There were actually some trail maintenance dudes there who'd bivied practically at the summit (that must've been cool!). Left the top @ 9.39, and got back to the truck @ 15.48 after an hr getting my stuff together @ camp.
Posted Mar 20, 2003 12:13 pm

PellucidWombatRe: Route Climbed: Red Lake -> Bad Idea route -> N Ridge Date Climbed: 9 September, 2001


haha, I like the name of your route. I had no idea we were so close to each other in summitting before we met! Small world, eh?
Posted Jul 8, 2008 2:41 pm

Eric TiptonRoute Climbed: East Arete, South Summit IV 5.9 Date Climbed: July 1999  Sucess!
This could be the most awesome arete climb I've ever done. This could be the most terrifying route I've ever done. Put these two facts together and you've got a great route. Long and loose, Kenn Kenega and I are lucky to tell the tale after this climb. We got both summits on this one, walked back to camp in the dark.
Posted Dec 20, 2002 8:35 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: St Jean Couloir Date Climbed: October 24, 1998


I soloed the St Jean Couloir on good water ice in late October of 1998. The route in hard ice conditions, is propably the fastest way to get to the top of Split Mountain. Descended the North Ridge to Red Lake.
Posted Nov 15, 2002 10:34 pm

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