Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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38.39460°N / 110.2601°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing, Bouldering, Canyoneering |
Season:
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Spring, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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Up to 5.7 |
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Overview
The Squeeze fork is short, but one of the best sections of the Bluejohn system. It is a short fork, but involves some spicy downclimbs and some dark narrows. Competent rock climbers can climb up or down this slot. A 100 foot or longer rope is recommended. Exit options are the same for the East Fork or you can go up the East Fork as well.
Hurry up! I can't hold this rock much longer. Mark McCray somewhere in Bluejohn Canyon.Getting There
Make sure to stock up with plenty of fuel and supplies when headed to the area. The nearest gas stations are in Green River and Hanksville and make sure to have a completely full tank of gas before leaving either town.Getting There from the North, East, or West and via Hans Flat Road
From I-70 11 miles west of Green River or from I-70 west of Highway 24, take exit 149 on Highway 24 southbound. Follow the highway south to the Hans Flat Road on the east side of the Highway, which is between mile markers 135 and 136. This is just south of the Goblin Valley State Park turnoff (west side of the highway).
Pull out the map and have it handy from here on. Follow the main gravel road (several forks are passed; stay on the main one) for 24 miles or so to a major junction (which will be referred to as “Horseshoe Junction” for clarity). Let’s stop here.
All the below trailheads are applicable for the Squeeze Fork.
West Fork Trailhead/West E/E Trailhead
This Trailhead access the West Fork of Bluejohn Canyon as well as Little Bluejohn Canyon. Turn right at Horseshoe Junction. Drive the road for about 6.9 miles to a small sandy 4wd track on the left (east). [This is just before a major junction in the main road, so if you hit the major junction, turn around and backtrack for about 0.2 miles]. Either park here or follow the sandy 4wd track for a short distance.
Granary Springs Trailhead
This trailhead accesses the Main Fork of Bluejohn Canyon, the Squeeze Fork Bluejohn Canyon, and the East Fork Bluejohn Canyon. Turn right at Horseshoe Junction as mentioned above. Follow the road south for 7.1 miles to another signed fork in the road. Turn left towards the Hans Flat Ranger Station. Follow the road south for 2.6 miles to a small road on the left (east). This short road leads to some old ranch buildings. The dilapidated ranch building is spray painted “Motel 6”. Park here.
Horseshoe Canyon Trailhead
This trailhead is for the exit route if you do the entire Bluejohn Canyon to Horseshoe Canyon. From Horseshoe Junction as mentioned above turn left (versus right for all the other trailheads). Follow the road for 5.1 miles to another junction. Turn right here on the road posted for “Horseshoe Canyon Foot Trail”. Follow this road for 1.7 miles to a parking lot. Park here.
OTHER DRIVING ROUTES:
Getting There from South via Hans Flat Road
From the junction of Highway 95 and Highway 124 in Hanksville, drive north on Highway 124 for approximately 18 miles to the Hans Flat Road on the east side of the Highway, which is between mile markers 135 and 136. If you reach the Goblin Valley State Park turnoff, you have gone too far and need to backtrack a short distance. From the Hans Flat Road between mile markers 135 and 136, follow the roads to any of the trailheads as described above.
From the South, you can also get to the trailheads via Hite and the Maze, but the route is complicated, slow, and rough (4wd always required), though very scenic. Don’t even ask me to describe that route in detail. Buy a map.
Getting There From the North, East, or West and via Green River Road
This route is shorter than the one via the Hans Flat Road, but takes a bit longer because the road is gravel for a much longer distance. From Green River at Center and Main, turn south and follow the road signed for the airport. Stay on the roads signed for the airport until you get to a gravel road on the left with a sign for San Rafael Desert and Horseshoe Canyon.
Turn onto this road. This is known as the Green River Road. Follow the Green River Road south (crossing the San Rafael River at just over 19 miles) for about 39-40 miles to the turnoff for Horseshoe Canyon Trailhead (see above). You can either take the road to this trailhead, or continue along the main road for 5.1 miles to Horseshoe junction where all the other trailheads are reached via the routes described above.
Route Description
There are several routes to access the Squeeze Fork Bluejohn, but this one is probably the best. From Granary Springs Trailhead, follow the Main Fork Bluejohn (a wash at this point) down canyon to a minor drainage on the right (east). Leave the main drainage and climb up to the ridge to the Northeast.Climb over the ridge and drop into the drainage on the other side. Follow the drainage down. The drainage will deepen and become a great slot canyon. This route is harder than the standard East Fork route and someone whom was probably frightened has written “DON'T GO DOWN HERE” on the canyon wall.
Continue through the fantastic slot. Experienced climbers can climb all the way down or up this slot, but you may want set up a belay or rappels at the drops, but please do not bolt it or leave slings, and please cut and pack out any slings you may find in the fork.
After some fun climbing (down), you will reach the floor of the standard East Fork route. Continue down the East Fork (see the route page) and exit via any one of several options mentioned on that page.