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Alpine Climbing |
General overview
Here are pictures from my attempt on the one of the classic alpine routes on Grossglockner. Stüdlgrat is a very picturesque SW ridge of Grossglockner with difficulty of III/-IV UIAA.Starting point is Stüdlhütte (2801 m), easily accessible from Lucknerhaus (1920 m).
We decided to go there in the late September, aware of the fact that the weather forecast wasn't a superb one, but we felt that this was the last chance this year. Although the weather was clear the day of our ascent, we met very difficult conditions on the ridge - a lot of snow and ice, belaying points hidden under snow, and we had a substantial time loss, because one member of our group decided to gave it up and we had to assisst him in abseiling. Therefore we came to Frühstückplatz two hours later than it's recommended, and considering the fact, that in the current conditions we couldn't make it to the summit in a daylight, we decided to abseil the ridge back to the starting point. On our way down, we met a group of unexperienced climbers, and because we had to help them to descend, the whole descend back to Stüdlhütte took us over 6 hours.
We were planning to go to the summit via Normal route on the next day, but it was raining since midnight, so the only option was to return to the valley, and to make from Stüdlgrat our plan for 2013.