Approach from Beehive Basin trailhead. Once at the lake, hike (off-trail) to the base of the main buttress.
The routes starts in a shallow left-facing corner approx. 20 meters left of the obvious chimney. Follow cracks and face to a belay at about 35 meters (slung horn) (5.8). From there, climb directly up and slightly left, climbing through a beautiful left-facing corner capped by a roof. Belay on a ledge above the roof (5.8). The third and final pitch follows the line of least resistance generally up and right to ledge systems (5.6). Scramble from here to the summit (~200 vertical feet).
Descend via the obvious couloir on the south side of the peak to the base of the rock.
Standard rack to #3 Camalot, possibly axe in early/late season. You may want double ropes for reduced drag. 60 meter ropes are recommended.
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