Standard : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

The trailhead is in the village of Arshan, thus most climbers walk from their accommodations. To get to the approach route, head towards the peak and take the old worn road through the forest as it takes off just to the right of Arshan's main (and paved) road. The paved road curves to the left at the base of the mountains to head over to the main tourist and springs area. This is not the same route that follows the Kyngyrga River past the springs -- rather the route up Pik Lyubvi is to the east of the main tourist area. There is no sign, but you will pass through a small turnstile just to your right towards an old cement building with a run-down playground in front of it.

As you pass through the forest, you will come to a boggy area that has clearly been mined. In some seasons there is a cascade of water called "Hair" flowing down the hillside. The route winds to the east (right) of the falls, turning back to the left, and then heading straight up the ridge. There are no trailmarkers, but there is a badly eroded route.

Route Description

The route is a climber's trail heading straight up the mountainside for the full 1220 metre ascent. It passes through coniferous forest and negotiates across a few small rock outcroppings. When you hit the burnt forest area, your'e about a quarter of the way up. In the summer, there is a "sand hill" of badly eroded hillside due to braided trails that you may have to wade through. The dirt can be ankle-deep. This distinguishing feature is about halfway up. As you continue, you begin to get a view of Peak Arshan to the right. A few hundred meters below timberline, you will work your way around a small and uncomplicated rock outcropping.

Once beyond timberline, the trail becomes slightly less steep and traverses the south and east sides of the summit cone. The summit itself is a mix of medium-sized boulders, many of which have been spray-painted. From the summit, the ridgeline drops towards the northeast and climbs again -- this is the traverse to Pik Druzhba, and is rated as a technical route.

Essential Gear

In winter conditions, crampons and an ice axe may be necessary. Bring plenty of water in summer, because even though it's Siberia, it gets HOT! You may also want to share with some hapless never-seen-a-mountain-before-tourist who started on the trailhead wearing a bathing suit and sandles.

Other Routes

There are other routes, notably several on the south side from the Kyngyrga River canyon that involve anywhere from light to decent climbing. I have not done any of these routes, and therefore haven't added a section on them, however, with a rope, belay system, rock anchors, helmet, and solid climbing knowledge you could do any number of routes right up to the summit. The main problem would be locating the direction to travel from the canyon (save a vague north or easterly heading) as the peak is not visible from most of the canyon.

Once you have passed through the canyon and reached the geologic feature referred to as the "Devil's Thumb" -- a collection of boulders creating a steep, small hill in the middle of the Kyngyrga, you do have a view to Pik Lyubvi and an idea of possible routes.

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