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Staniska Scharte Route
Route

Staniska Scharte Route

 
Staniska Scharte Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Hohe Tauern / Schober Group, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.94480°N / 12.69760°E

Object Title: Staniska Scharte Route

Route Type: Mountaineering, Mixed

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Difficult, quite exposed walk-up, snow ridge

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Oct 6, 2002 / May 29, 2013

Object ID: 157076

Hits: 2320 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Approach

The ascent starts at Hochschober Huette, 2322 m. See the parent page of Hochschober how to get there!

On the interactive map below, our route is the violet one.


View Hochschober SE Route in a larger map

Route Description

 
Hochschober from Hochschober...
Hochschober Huette and the summit of Hochschober. The ascent goes over the saddle on the left and then by the left skyline.
From Hochschober Huette, 2322 m, you go across the meadow towards the North, where the marked path starts ascending. After half an hour you reach on the altitude of 2515 m Schoberlake and bypass it on the left (western) side. The path steepnes is constant, you are ascending through a high-mountain valley in a NW and N-NW direction. Just below the Staniska Scharte (notch) there is usually a snow field (we had it in August) and you can use it for a quite steep ascent, or you can use the path, which goes over the rocks on the right side (secured with steel cables). From the hut to Staniska Scharte, 2930 m, you will need 2 hours (600 m).

On Staniska Scharte you turn right (towards the East). You scramble up over the rocky ridge, approaching to the Point 3185 m. Before reaching it, the path traverses its south slopes. In hard snow or ice it can be tricky, because the traverse is exposed. But in normal conditions there are no problems and you continue by the beautiful snowy summit ridge of Hochschober. On your left you can see the whole North slope, covered with glacier. Soon the ridge becomes steep again. You scramble over rocks, one rock slab can be slippery in snow or ice, so it is again secured by a steel rope, which is unfortunately hanging much towards the right. But soon the ridge becomes harmless again and you reach the summit (in a good one hour from Staniska Scharte).

For a descent the same route is possible, but of course it is much more awarding to use one of other routes, for example the south-east ridge and slope.

Essential Gear

In summer or autumn you will not necessarily need ice-pick or crampons, but it's useful to have them, also for the descent. When slopes are icy or covered by snow, you will need both. So, in good conditions also walking poles are useful.

Images

The view from Hochschober...Hochschober from Hochschober...On the summit ridge (west) of...