Left bivy site in middle of valley at 2:30 AM and went up East toe of glacier. Base of face at 4:30 - 5AM. Pitched out over Schrund and two pitches of ice and the kicked steps to the top at about 8 am.
Descended the NW ridge. Attached a picture of the descent ridge taken in 2011 which shows a gully descent route and the NW ridge route. One rap over upper rock band on N Face and some easy fifth class downclimbing and 2 raps along ridge leads to easier ground and ledges which lead around east to top of waterfall.
Also attached four related pictures of the route and area that were taken in 2009 from the East Stanley ridge.
[ View Gallery - 2 More Images ]