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Starr's Route Climber's Log

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icescrewLedge is eroding  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2016
The toe of the buttress appears to be easy 5th class. There is a safer moraine and talus slope around to the right (west) side that will bypass the steep rock. After a while, you can get onto the buttress and its rock ledges. The rock ledges are short class 3 speed bumps. The route trends to the left side of the buttress and the firm rock turns into choss. The diagonal ledge to the ridge mentioned in the route description appears to have mostly crumbled away. But with much sliding, panting and swearing you can climb and traverse the loose talus to the higher notch on the ridge. The lower notch looks more difficult. Some cairns mark the route.
Posted Aug 19, 2016 8:34 pm

asmrzStay on the rock  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2015


Penelope May-Smrz and I scrambled up the Starr Route on June 29, 2015. We tried to climb up from the toe of the buttress, but found it steep and 4th, maybe 5th class. Decided to go around the buttress and after short hike up on the right side of the buttress, found easy gully that got us on the buttress. Stay on the rock, it is harder but cleaner. If you stay in the gullies, there is much loose rock. 3rd/easy 4th all the way up. The Ledge is loose and dirty. Long rubble slope to the summit. Over 2,100 feet of gain from Wanda Lake. Great summit views.
Posted Jul 5, 2015 4:23 pm

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