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Steinadlerroute

 
Steinadlerroute

Page Type: Route

Location: Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.35481°N / 7.85608°E

Object Title: Steinadlerroute

Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Difficulty: 450 meters, 5a (5a obl.)

Number of Pitches: 13

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Jurgen

Created/Edited: Aug 26, 2008 / Dec 22, 2010

Object ID: 435535

Hits: 2387 

Page Score: 77.48%  - 8 Votes 

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Overview

The Steinadlerroute is one the best routes on the Wiwannihorn! It offers the climber a pretty long route in the best gneis. The route has about 13 pitches. From the end of the route you'll need to climb for about 40 minutes on a ridge to get to the summit. Generaly the route is very well protected with good bolts, so you don't need any cams of nuts. The part from the end to route to the summit isn't protected end requires some solid climbing (2-3a max.). The best way for the descent is the Westridge.
 
View towards the Monte Leone
Beautifull view from the Steinadlerroute.

Getting There

To Ausserberg (1008m.)

By car: follow the E62 through the Rhonevalley untill you reach Visp. Take the direction Baltschieder and pass the trainstation of Visp. Cross the Rhone river and drive through the village of Baltschieder. Just follow the road untill you reach Ausserberg, 10-15 minutes from Visp.
By train: Ausserberg has a railway station on the track between Göppenstein and Brig. See www.sbb.ch for a schedule.

To the Wiwannihut (2470m.)

You can walk all the way from Ausserberg to the Wiwannihut, 4 hours. Fortunatly there is a road up to Fuxtritt (1851m.) where you can park your car. This way the ascent to the hut will only cost about 1 1/2 hours.
Attention: the road from Ausserberg to Fuxtritt is a toll road! Get a ticket at one of the restaurants in Ausserberg or at the last parking area in the village.

To the start of the Steinadlerroute:

From the path behind the hut up the first hill (northwestern direction). Take the first path to the right and climb a second hill. After this descent in eastern direction and cross some small rivers. Follow this in the direction of the foot of the Wiwannihorn south face, at the end some scrambling. The start of the route is marked (35 minutes from the hut).

Route Description

The Steinadlerroute of the Wiwannihorn leads through the southface of the mountain.

Ascent: Start at the marked point on the rock. After three pitches you'll have to make a short traverse to the left. After a steep step you'll get to the most beautifull part of the route with a few 5a pitches. After 6 pitches you'll get to the ridge wich leads to the East Summit. Follow this to the summit (less bolts, but easy). From the East Summit you'll have to climb for about 40 minutes to the main summit.



Descent: it is adviced to descent along the very well marked westridge (2b max.). Descent along the ridge untill you reach the pass between the Wiwannihorn and the Augstkummenhörner. From the pass you'll have to rappel two times 20 meters. After the rappels it is a short scramble to reach the path that leads to the hut (2 hours from the summit to the hut).

See the excellent Steinadlerroute (H) topo below (credits to www.wiwanni.ch!).

Essential Gear

Normal trad climbing gear. At least a 50 meter rope and 10 quickdrawns.

External Links

See the Wiwannihorn website on SP.

Images

Wiwannihorn SteinadlerrouteView towards the Monte LeoneClimbing the SteinadlerrouteClimbing the SteinadlerrouteOn the WiwannihornWiwannihorn SteinadlerrouteClimbing Steinaddlerroute
The Wiwannihorn East summitAt the last pitch of the SteinadlerrouteThe WiwannihornView from the summit